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Okay. If you can get both the floors almost level with each other (+/- 3mm), then you could use an uncoupling mat over the entire floor before tiling. I'd be thinking of quite a thick one, such as Durabase. Both floors would have to be sound (boarded over possibly with Hardibacker or other...

All short 2 week private courses in tiling are bullshit. They will rape the cash from you and you'll end up with NOTHING. No skills whatsover to transfer into the real world. Best to get yourself on a proper C&G Course for FREE and paid for by the Government at a local Building council-run...

A bit scruffy, no mitres, and not to my standard, but it all depends on what you paid my friend....

Movement. No adequate movement joints used.

The VERY simple rule is this: If the grout has cracked, then the bond between the tile and substrate (what the tile was bonded onto) has failed. There is never any other explanation other than movement due to moisture or instability. If this is one area only, it only shows that it's a weak area...

Hi Richie, Unfortunately, I've been waiting for this fall-out to happen from the trend in builders attempting to flag using thick porcelain tiles. They have no idea about the substrate, moisture, temperature or correct adhesives to use with porcelain. Their brazen lack of care is frightening...

Avoid the use of tiling onto wood at all costs. It's moisture-sensitive, de-laminating and just a bad thing. No, I don't work for James Hardibacker or others.

This is a seriously bad floor to try and tile as a whole. There are major issues with the gap between the 2 floors and it's not a small gap. Moreover, the difference in levels look hugely out of level. I can't really see a solution on this one because of the vast difference in levels and the...

£165-180 per day depending on complexity. Note: This is in West Yorkshire, so prices will vary nationally.

Hi, The floor boards must be solid and sound. Then, as other tilers have stressed: it must be over-boarded with a cement board. Then checked for flatness and level. Will need levelling if not flat, then tiling.

I slipped over when posting

Sounds like the tiler did the right thing. My only question would be on incorporated movement joints across the floor. Was this done, as if not, a heated floor can certainly cause fractures?

Vitrified means that the tile isn't porous to any problematic level of moisture. Porcelain is a material designed for very low porosity, hence it's outdoor use in cold climates and hard wearing properties.

Okay, so the floor looks sound and dry? That's good. Next step is If you can, get rid of the plasterboard behind the tray, and replace with said waterproof board (12.5 mm green plasterboard is only moisture resistant, not proof, and would require tanking, so using a standard plasterboard would...

Clips on metros! No way!? That's just INSANE. You are pulling my leg? I can only try to give some decent advice due to this pandemic of DIY'ers.😂 I don't finish off other people's work like any other tiler, so I thought I'd take to this site to try and help the DIY'ers get on the right track...

Why?

Yeah, you're probably right, dependant on temp. Are they fully vitrified porcelain tiles? I've changed my mind to the incorrect installation of the UFH wires and/or waiting times before it was turned on. It could be excessive heat due to the UFH installer ordering too much mat and overlaying...