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Recently asked to go and look at a porch which has flagstones that seem to be soild and about 2foot by 3foot in size. My thoughts are to prime, lay SLC put down Dural to alow small amount of movement if it occours(to be safe) and then lay using Keraflex with flexible grout. Any one have...

yeah till now but this porcelain tile has a textured surfave and isnt smooth so not sure if thats part of the problem or if like i said the wheel needs changed. Its not every cut that this happes on but oo many and mainly when im cutting the lenght 600mm im not getting the clean break.

Have a porcelain job on at the moment and am finding that my Husqvarna TC670 Tile Cutter Pro manual cutter is struggling to snap down the scored line, its occasionally following the line then drifting off accros the tile leaving me having to finish off of wet cutted. Is this due to the scoring...

Thanks for all the tips, what If a walls been tiled previously would you just remove tiles where the dabs of adhesive will go or is it best to strip whole wall back? Is there a primer required for the board adhesive for subs like brick, plaster/render?

Good advice and was hoping you boys would say that:thumbsup:. Take it you only lose the thickness of the board and a few mm for adhesive rather the an inch and a half per wall as when baton method is used? Any advice on how to D&D well and whats a good product to use as adhesive? Thanks

Curious on what everyone thinks is the best way to make a wall good for tiling either dot and dab, get a plasterer to skim the wall or to put up battons and board out wall? Never dot and dabbed but i know alot of joiners I work with doint like the baton method due to amount lost of the room...

Ive never used SLC so figured it may take me a bit longer by the time i setup laser find variations in floor and scrw in markers and pour, but I could use rapid set to lay mat and depending and on time might get both done in one day. Could give rate i pay for mats rather than spliting...

First larger job 25m2 either slate or travertine first day bed ufh mat to ply using spf, day 2 pour slc £120 lay 25m2 @ £5m2 dura matting £120 lay tile £750 inc sealing and grouting = £990 lab + mats 15 addy, 6 slc, 2l sealer, 3 grout, 25m2 dura =965 total of £1955 Seems alot but you can see...

Dura going for £14 at topps. Similar to ctd? Going to recommend strongly that its used on this floor, priced everything up and heres the breakdown see what everyone else gets, First larger job 25m2 either slate or travertine first day bed ufh mat to ply using spf, day 2 pour slc £120 lay 25m2...

Advice giving is defo followed, that way I cant blame myself:lol:. Ive ony come across 1 floating floor and I told him the risks and why I was not willing to tile it so they went down a diferent route. If its floating Im not touching it.

Yes. Great advice and a big help.Thanks

Ah right , the ufh is the type that is attached to the mesh and i usually just lay a thin bed of addy and roll out the mat bedding it into the adhesive so it shouldnt be able to move but ive heard of the wire that comes in a roll doing what you have discribed so that makes sense. Suggested to...

1 So setup laser anywere in room at 600mm on highest spot if its obvious 2 if not go around room and find highest spot and move laser to there keeping it set at 600 3 now go around room again and mark differences from 600 4 place screws at difference depth on marks you have made Is that the...

ok, is it as accurate over 10+m? not sure my stanley laser will beam that far:lol:

Yeah sir ramic your post is whats set me thinking, haha. When your on about a laser level do you mean set it up at a desired height and measure using a tape from floor to where the laser hits the tape? Done that before but took ages and water level look quick in your previous post SLC Advice and...

what do you use as a straight edge and whats its length? Was to get an 1800mm level but could just use a straight edge and my 1200 level ontop if required. I Think its a water level in this video and looks like other end has been setup next to wall allowing one man to operate it but i could be...

anyone used a Water level for this ....?

Quick post, Just wondering whats the best method for determining how off a floor is interms of flat and dips/humps before applying Slc and are screws the best way to mark rquired height? Never used Slc before and want to do it right.:thumbsup:

What was the tool the installers were using to measure the changes in floor level and are screws the best method of marking the depth req?

Cheers Daz defo price in Decoupler, I thought it be a good idea but warned the customer its not cheap though but why skim over the wires with a CHEAP RAPID SET FLEXIBLE adhesive before applying the slc ?