60 X 60 Porcelain

[mz30]

I done a floor last year almost a thousand square metres in 600x600 cream porcelain every 36 tiles were surrounded by 600x300 frame it was all fixed on marine ply using bal flex and a 12mm serrator(if anyone wants to look its in the may sum restaraunt in derby).
The best advice i can give is whats already been said make sure the substrate is perfect before starting as they are a ***** if the floor is only slightly out,also anything above a 2mm joint makes the floor lose it's effect(imo).

 

[Perry]

that all i fix now days easy to lift with a gauging trowel most of the floors we lay on are like ploughed fields not lucky enough to have the time to level the floor first mostly rectified with 2 mm joints i find its best to use PTB if u can put a 3mm joint it may help find the highest point but don't try to make the floor level just flat or u may end up with step at the door waysete

 

[davy_G]

I agree with all the other posts on a flat floor. I would use a SLC with spilked roller unless the floor was perfect. Close the grout lines up to at least 3mm and 2 mm if you get the floor really good.
I didnt backbutter, but the back of the tiles where pretty smooth.

You can make a really nice job of these and the best bit is they are quick to grout!

 

[Perry]

I done a floor last year almost a thousand square metres in 600x600 cream porcelain every 36 tiles were surrounded by 600x300 frame it was all fixed on marine ply using bal flex and a 12mm serrator(if anyone wants to look its in the may sum restaraunt in derby).
The best advice i can give is whats already been said make sure the substrate is perfect before starting as they are a ***** if the floor is only slightly out,also anything above a 2mm joint makes the floor lose it's effect(imo).

a very expensive way of laying 1000 sq meters what was the adhesive cost ?

 

[mz30]

No idea, labour only

 

[sWe]

• Make sure the substrate is VERY smooth and level. Ideally, you want to use good SLC before putting down that large tiles.
• Getting 100% coverage of the adhesive is very important when working with large tiles, even more so than usual, as the tiles will crack easily if there are any hollows beneath them.
• If possible, use cement based adhesive of a "floating" flex variety. It's more liquid than normal cement based adhesive, so it's easier to get good coverage with it, and the type is often optimized for heavy wear and large tiles.
• Use large a large u-notch trowel, round-notch trowel, or Euro-notch trowel (I prefer euro-notch) for best possible coverage.
• Not working past the open-time of the adhesive is even more important than usual
• Make sure to check the levels often with a spirit-level, as any diffs will be quite noticable.
• Make sure to have movement joints every 10sqm or so
• Don't do brick-bond on (relatively) fresh concrete with this large tiles. If there is shrinkage in the concrete, there is a larger chance of tiles cracking, instead of just the joints, if you lay it in brick bond. Same goes for most other non-grid patterns.

That's pretty much what I can come up with at the moment.

 

[grumpygrouter]

sWe, can you define "Euro-notch" trowel please?

Grumpy

 

[sWe]

Link with a product description

Link to the manufacturer

If you haven't tried it, then I suggest you do. In my opinion, there is no better trowel for tiling floors. It uses up adhesive at a rate similar to a 8-10mm square notch trowel, so you might end up using a little bit more (or a little bit less) adhesive using this baby, but you'll get 100% coverage pretty much all the time.

Since I got mine, I've used it successfully on tiles ranging from 30x30 to 60x60. Haven't had the chance to try on any larger than that though. Tiles are getting bigger over here too, but the largest tiles I normally encounter are 30x30 or 30x60. 60x60 or larger isn't that common, yet.

 

[alex1963]

anything less than perfect will look awful and very likely result in your not being paid so take your time to get the substate level,use a 12 - 14 mm trowel and take your time.use a non slumping adhesive designed for large format tiles,i have seen plenty of floors ruined by slumping tiles. check every joint on every tile with a sharp edge(i sometimes use a coin) and if there is any lippage fix it!!and at the end when you have been paid go and see a chiropractor because you will proberly need it!!!

 

[Bhoystris]

Hi, I've been around to see a job tonight and the guy is wanting these 600 x 600 polished porcelain tiles fitted in his living room and hall. He has got them from B & Q. All in the area is 23 sqm. What would be a reasonable price to charge for this job? Currently he has floorboards throughout which he is going to ply, i have recommended 9mm or thicker screwing down at 300mm intervals. I think i will get myself a big round notch trowel for this job, usually i use a 10mm square for floor tiles but defenitley want to get a thicker bed down for these huge tiles. How much more time consuming has the guys who have laid these found to be compare with your 300 x 300 floor tiles?

 

[a1tiler]

i have been asked to fit these 600 x 600 b and q black porcelain tiles as a splashback, has anyone done this and how did you deal with sockets .

 

[TheWrightTiler]

unless the sockets line up perfectly which they wont then am afraid its drill and plunge cut to get the cuts out

time consuming and a pain in the butt

best to remove the sockets totally if u can and mark using a white china marker as east to see

andy

 

[Deleted member 1779]

A1 the answer is yes we have fitted jet-black porcleain tiles before.

And had to drill them out to fit items as you describe: See piccy

Black porcelain tiles are no different to any other porcelain tile
(IE they are very very hard)

Below is what we built. It had to be drilled to fit the body jets, shower control socket and the shower rose.

A total of five holes for the body jets and shower rose. Plus the square socket control panel

To put anything square slap bang in the middle of a hard tile you need to combine use of a diamond drill [to knock out the corners] and either a plunge cut on a wet saw or use of an angle grinder.

We do a full article on putting sockets into tiles and can be read in depth here.

But the basic tequnique is to predrill your corners like this and then grind the lines to meet up.

Predrill your corners. Then grind the sides with plunge cut or grinder

[Sorry about the naff photos!]

Then you can fix your socket and hide the wonky bits

To make the cuts from hole to hole we used this £14.99 angle grinder

The small hand held angle grinder AKA mini-grinder [£14.99 here at Screwfix direct] was fitted with a £19.99 diamond blade.



Commercial disclaimer. No power was being fed to the socket at any time during the photographed tutorial. Although the plug socket was wired it was not connected to any power source. If you are not a qualified electricial installer do not attempt electrical work. Please only attempt the work if qualified or if working with a competent person. Due the high speed of the grinder and creation of dust and debris all observers, photographers and operators wore full safety GOGGLES (not glasses). Gloves and face mask. Please be sure to read and follow all the safety instructions on any equipment prior to use.

 

[alex1963]

to cut a socket in a tile of any size ,mark the cut on the back of the tile ,and then cut all 4 sides with a grinder and then pop the piece off.grinders are an essentual tool and while they should command respect,they are very easy to use

 

[enduro]

Just mind your fingers..:74: