a bit stuck with tiling

[sharki9]

Hi All,

we just bought a house! In the kitchen next to the door we had tiles which were broken and moving, it was really annoying every time you step on them, so we decided to replace them. As the kitchen is done in extension of the house we presumed that the floor underneath is concrete, well... it is, but the concrete finishes about 20cm outside of the door, what follows is rubber like material and there is a hollow space underneath (it could be a waterproof/damp proof membrane) I highlighted this on the picture with the yellow circle nr 1, this material is moving (bumpy) so when you press it you can make a bump in it and than it will jump out. We thought this membrane is supported on wood - so we bought plywood and wanted to screw it in to even out that bit before putting the tiles on - but the screw wouldn't go in (nr 2 on the pic), I think that the tiles broke originally because this is not a solid ground it moves and the movement makes tiles to crack and i'm worried if I will lay the tiles back on it they will crack again, what would be the best way to lay a tile on this surface?

Many thanks in advance for any suggestions.

link to the picture

https://docs.google.com/document/d/11HbEDQloMoKNf5KEpBIicaksyIbeaTzGOCBXx-vpCxs/edit?usp=sharing

 

[Qwerty]

I've added the picture to your post (wasn't good resolution Im afraid)

 

[peterwhayward]

That looks like the dpc (damp proof course) and possibly it has expanding foam underneath it where that upvc door has been fitted. You would probably need to take a look underneath the dpc its probably a brick or two missing.!

 

[sharki9]

That looks like the dpc (damp proof course) and possibly it has expanding foam underneath it where that upvc door has been fitted. You would probably need to take a look underneath the dpc its probably a brick or two missing.!

so should I cut through it? I was afraid to cut it in case it's there for a reason, i got a whole bucket of "UniBond" ceramic floor tile adhesive, can I fill the gap with it and wait for it to dry and make the floor even ?

or what would be the best way of going about this problem ?

 

[White Room]

What size gap is it...

 

[sharki9]

its about 5.5-6cm would need to cut it to get exact

 

[White Room]

its about 5.5-6cm to get the exact measure I would need to cut it, not sure why the last reply did not post

The tubbed gear will take forever to go off at that thickness...

Your first few posts have to be approved by a moderator...

 

[sharki9]

[/B]

The tubbed gear will take forever to go off at that thickness...

Your first few posts have to be approved by a moderator...

so what would be your suggestion ? it took me long time to take off those tiles and clear the area so would like to do it properly, so it will last for some time before we redo the kitchen.

im not even sure why this was done that way as building is not my expertise

 

[White Room]

so what would be your suggestion ? it took me long time to take off those tiles and clear the area so would like to do it properly, so it will last for some time before we redo the kitchen.

im not even sure why this was done that way as building is not my expertise

Reread your op and looking at the picture and from my understanding is the floor screed comes level with the damp course, the gap is the cavity between the two brick courses where the tile cracked...is that correct.

 

[sharki9]

Reread your op and looking at the picture and from my understanding is the floor screed comes level with the damp course, the gap is the cavity between the two brick courses where the tile cracked...is that correct.

Just googled cavity wall and the gap could be a space between the two bricks, so the concrete floor comes up to the wall, and the damp course covers the two bricks, the problem is that the damp course moves, it's bumpy so when I'll put the tiles on it i'm worried that they will break again?

 

[White Room]

Why not use a timber threshold against the door rather than tiling it....

 

[sharki9]

I think this is what I got, found something on the internet

https://environment7.uwe.ac.uk/resources/constructionsample/Conweb/walls/parapet3.jpg

the only difference is that when I look outside to the right of the doors I have a ventilation/air brick

http://www.cmprestigeheatingplumbing.co.uk/resources/air_brick_630.jpg

so my DPC sag and does not have support, just don't know how to fix it

 

[White Room]

The floor screed should have been laid over the damp course....

 

[Stef]

I get this quite a lot on some new builds, I just cut the DPC away as there's no other way of doing it.
The level might be down slightly, build it up with some tile adhesive.

 

[sharki9]

The floor screed should have been laid over the damp course....

something like this ?

http://www.diy.com/nav/build/buildi...e-Floor-Leveller-10Kg-12047501?skuId=12568207

how thick it should be so it won't break ? would it be enough if I laid this on this uncovered area or do I need to laid it on the whole floor ?

 

[White Room]

The floor screed would have been 50mm and a thin roof slate would have laid over cavity, anything thin will crack with movement has as proved with your tile.

As said previous a wood threshold would be your best bet.

 

[sharki9]

The floor screed would have been 50mm and a thin roof slate would have laid over cavity, anything thin will crack with movement has as proved with your tile.

As said previous a wood threshold would be your best bet.

was looking now at this area and can't quite figure out how I would mount this wood threshold, the only way I can think of is to glue it to the DPC but this will move as well when you step on it.

 

[sharki9]

I get this quite a lot on some new builds, I just cut the DPC away as there's no other way of doing it.
The level might be down slightly, build it up with some tile adhesive.

what do you use to fill the gap? is there any risk once I cut of the DPC ( I mean in terms of damp etc ) ?

 

[White Room]

was looking now at this area and can't quite figure out how I would mount this wood threshold, the only way I can think of is to glue it to the DPC but this will move as well when you step on it.

Drill, plug and screw into the bricks, before screwing use some quality silicone into the hole to keep the damp proofing active.

 

[sharki9]

Drill, plug and screw into the bricks, before screwing use some quality silicone into the hole to keep the damp proofing active.

whitebeam thank you for your suggestions today, will wait to see if others came across this issue and what was the solution, and will think through what I will do.

 

[sharki9]

Drill, plug and screw into the bricks, before screwing use some quality silicone into the hole to keep the damp proofing active.

I found someone with similar issue, and I think they have a fairly good solution ?

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/bridging-the-cavity-t53635.html

 

[sharki9]

I found someone with similar issue, and I think they have a fairly good solution ?

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/bridging-the-cavity-t53635.html

I decided to fill the gaps with the cavity foam, will cut it and level up

https://docs.google.com/document/d/11HbEDQloMoKNf5KEpBIicaksyIbeaTzGOCBXx-vpCxs/edit