W
Waluigi
From memory the AKW doesn’t need fully supporting underneath (ply between joists) so yes you could pack the joists up with something to get the desired height of the wet Dec. The Dec is screwed down anyway.
Q
Qwerty
Absolutely fine to do the above. Just ensure the length of the joists that the former is to sit on is covered with the material used to ensure uniformity
Okay, shame to buy more plywood but I suspect putting lengths of 6mm hardiebacker under the former would potentially be a bad idea?
Waluigi, you were previously asking me about what tiles I want to use. My wife has found some at wickes she likes. She saw the ones in the
picture below in a show room, and wants to use the mosaic tiles just on the shower former.
It got me thinking though, it's it easier to use mosaic tiles because they are small and wont need cutting and should take the shape of the former with ease, or are they a pain to get them all laying at the right angle. I'm all for making my life easier when tiling this former.
Waluigi, you were previously asking me about what tiles I want to use. My wife has found some at wickes she likes. She saw the ones in the
picture below in a show room, and wants to use the mosaic tiles just on the shower former.
It got me thinking though, it's it easier to use mosaic tiles because they are small and wont need cutting and should take the shape of the former with ease, or are they a pain to get them all laying at the right angle. I'm all for making my life easier when tiling this former.
W
Waluigi
I would think 6mm Hardie would be fine. Keep in mind that Hardiebacker doesn’t like to be screwed near to the edge as it just breaks off. A pilot hol through the board and even a countersink might be necessary.
Mosaic wise- good idea for a wet room former as the tiles naturally follow the slope plus mosaics add a certain amount of non slip to the floor area.
Mosaic wise- good idea for a wet room former as the tiles naturally follow the slope plus mosaics add a certain amount of non slip to the floor area.
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W
Waluigi
Mosaics will be fine on the Tray. It’s a GRP tray. Solid as a rock. Manufacturer confirmed.
F
Flintstone
My advice regarding tiles would be to avoid Wickes as there tiles are largely terribly quality. And mosaics, yes they follow the curves but there's a lot of grout there to go bad, unless you use epoxy grout.
So I have bought my hardiebacker board. I'm going to put it up on Thursday. Quick question, am I right in thinking I just need to stick the 6mm stuff to the ply wood floor with tile adhesive, no screws?
And do you think using hardiebacker 12mm on these stud walls is a good idea? I was going to sceew them to the stud timber with "gold" branded screws.
Just hope the boards don't warp being stood up like this before I get around to doing it on thursday
And do you think using hardiebacker 12mm on these stud walls is a good idea? I was going to sceew them to the stud timber with "gold" branded screws.
Just hope the boards don't warp being stood up like this before I get around to doing it on thursday
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W
White Room
Use screws only 20mm long, saves going through pipes etc under the floor boards.
Gold screws if memory serve me right.
Gold screws if memory serve me right.
W
Wetroom specialist
Just sticking my oar in one one point. In my humble opinion ALWAYS underboard EVERY floor FORMER. Even when the manufacturers say that their product doesn't need it. It does! Think about it. Even with flexible adhesive and grout, tiles and grout do not like ANY movement. Even the slightest movement could result in a hairline crack in the grout (and in some cases the tiles). This will result in water ingress under the tiles. Not a problem as far as leaks are concerned if you have tanked properly. But you will still have water under the tiles and an unhappy client. Like all building work. Get the foundations correct and you are half way there.
