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K

k13wjd

ok ok, i'll do it faster.
Ok, first 3 are pics of the walls i have to deal with.....
1 (6).JPG

1 (7).JPG

1 (8).JPG

The first wall i've EVER made - dead on 90 degrees. Forms a gap for my bath, and also forms a new cupboard on the adjoining room
1 (5).JPG

This photo shows a pre-empt for the next photo's - just to show you where the photos are taken.
1.JPG

where the boards join - around 5mm.
1 (2).JPG

and then the dreaded problem. These 2 show the drop at each end of the 1200mm board - around 10/11mm at each end.
9.JPG

1 (10).JPG

Seems the board is high/curved in the middle. My guess is the foam expanded after i put the board on the wall.
Oh, and yes, those are cast concrete floors, Just to add to my problems.
 
K

k13wjd

oh god, i fear i'm about to be morally destroyed in public.

I've removed that wonky board, along will all the foam ( harris 5inch blade did a nice job, Freshly sharpened on my oilstone!)

Please will someone confirm to me that these walls are NOT ready for tiling. I will say they are 100% true, vertical and horiz, both panels, top and bottom.

Obviously i would have to fill the big holes, with whatever is to hand...I've got pleanty of small peices of plasterboard, i could cut +patch.



Have i just wasted several hours of my life, caused 2 domestics, and chiseled my arm for nothing?. I seriously hope not. I swear the wall looked worse before i put the board up. i look at them now and think....why did i put that board up again?


w.JPG

w (2).JPG

w (3).JPG

w (4).JPG

w (5).JPG
 
T

The D

The expanding foam is pretty strong stuff and I'm sure it will do the job, for future ref if you stick a dozen screws with washers in each board it stops it expanding unevenly.
If you go for smaller tiles and lay them in a traditional square manner, either portrait or landscape they should adopt the contours of the substrate and you may get away with it. If you decide to go brickbond that will become harder as the corners tend to poke out.
The larger the tiles get then the harder the job becomes as they don't 'bend' with the wall as the smaller ones do. The worst case scenario is large format rectangles set brickbond as you'll have to use your highest point as the level for the whole wall - in your case having up to 10mm behind some of the tiles which is beyond the bed recommended by most adhesives and makes the job a lot more fiddly for your tiler. If you want this option I would suggest putting a skim coat of plaster on first to make it level, wait a month for that to cure and then crack on.
Bear in mind the idea is to get over 90% coverage of adhesive on the back of the fixed tiles, that's more likely with a flatter wall.
the only thing with putting a skim coat on the boards is the weight issues the large format tiles will probably exceed the 20kg limit for skimmed walls.
 

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