B&Q Tiles... disgrace!!!

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pf tiling

Hi,

Am I the only distressed tiler that has to deal with the tiles sold at B&Q?? it's very rare that the tiles are exactly the same size and by the time you've realised you've already laid 3 rows on rapid set and the spacers are throwing your lines out... then you have to stop using spacers to compensate for size differences...it just ruins a job, and it's not on, for customers and tilers... absoloutly laughable!! How do they get away with it??
 
B&Q negotiate hard with their suppliers to ensure cheap prices. Cheap can only be achieved by neglecting quality. You get what you pay for!

I wish clients would realise that DIY stores sell DIY products that will give DIY results.

I spotted a sign in my town this morning that says "B&Q coming soon" - ooh, I can't wait :thumbsdown:.

I'll just up my prices when potential clients mention B&Q.
 
Too be fair ( although I know where you are coming from ) tiles can vary in size even from reputable outlets.
Always start by checking batch numbers then open all packs, check for size difference and finally mix the tiles up.
 
sizey tiles should not be major problem for experienced tilers, if tiles vary in size the joint width should be opened up to accommodate for this and the floor should be gridded with chalk lines into bays if this is done and the tiles are mixed well as Siramic mentioned the larger joint width eases the difference and the finished job should look good
 
well from experience, i've found that the common tiles for this are the 300 x 300 (apparently) with the bevelled edge. And garrythetiler, I usually do use 4m spacers on that type of tile to compensate for any adjustments. However, this particular customer wanted 2mm grout lines. I hear what your all saying, but can you honestly say that you check every tile before you've even preped the floor, that would take 2 hours alone!! It shouldn't have to be done, that's my point! luckily i've had a few encounters of this sort and have learned to compensate accordingly, but when i've just taken a slice of a customers wallet for a job it just makes me think how wrong it is. Customer was happy, but I wasnt!
 
2mm spacers will cause problems in tiles from many suppliers. Problem is that, most customers base their choice on tiles by the price rather than the quality. All tile suppliers would negotiate hard with their suppliers, not only B&Q.
I recon there is a price bracket where you will find that tiles are not perfect.
 
I agree to an extent, but even cheaper tiles in travertine, granite, marble or polished porcelain.... you never come across this problem.... it's a job your proud to put your name to.....maby I look to far into perfection and overlook the overall quality of the job, but it's just things I notice that the untrained eye doesn't, and it get's right on my ****
 
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well from experience, i've found that the common tiles for this are the 300 x 300 (apparently) with the bevelled edge. And garrythetiler, I usually do use 4m spacers on that type of tile to compensate for any adjustments. However, this particular customer wanted 2mm grout lines. I hear what your all saying, but can you honestly say that you check every tile before you've even preped the floor, that would take 2 hours alone!! It shouldn't have to be done, that's my point! luckily i've had a few encounters of this sort and have learned to compensate accordingly, but when i've just taken a slice of a customers wallet for a job it just makes me think how wrong it is. Customer was happy, but I wasnt!

might be a habit you need to get into check tiles shade caliber and size before starting the job and defiantly mix all tiles (shading) saves a lot of trouble later
 
Topps sell some the worst I have ever had to fix, but if the correct guidelines are followed then there should not be to much of a problem. Gotta say, I feel that there is to much dependance on spacers, before they came along we just used to make a staff using tiles from different packages, from there it was possible to define a nominal joint for that particular installation, nowadays there are some very well made tiles so spacers can be utilized ensuring that joint are true, but there is also an element of lesser quality, and as fore mentioned, that does not always mean top brand names are any better, I fixed some Villery & Boch stuff . terrible !!. When all else fails, go back to basics and you should climb over any problems of this nature ....... Steve aka ozboz





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well from experience, i've found that the common tiles for this are the 300 x 300 (apparently) with the bevelled edge. And garrythetiler, I usually do use 4m spacers on that type of tile to compensate for any adjustments. However, this particular customer wanted 2mm grout lines. I hear what your all saying, but can you honestly say that you check every tile before you've even preped the floor, that would take 2 hours alone!! It shouldn't have to be done, that's my point! luckily i've had a few encounters of this sort and have learned to compensate accordingly, but when i've just taken a slice of a customers wallet for a job it just makes me think how wrong it is. Customer was happy, but I wasnt!
can you tile a floor without spacers? it is important you learn especially if you use hand made tiles, terracotta and quarries, using spacers can send you out of square over a large area and you should be relying on pythagoras theorem when tiling, not spacers, hope this helps:thumbsup:
 
As above, to much reliance on spacers can be a bad thing imo. A staff and a good eye is all I use, wedge spacers for walls.

BS for floor tiles is min 3mm:thumbsup:
 
Exactly Gary, I was still posting when you replied, 3.4.5 every time, square on the hypotenuse and all that, great minds think alike:thumbsup:
 
B&Q / Wickes I tend to start off with a 4/5mm spacer and always always end up spacing by eye.

I find it amazing how such utter cack can pass BS for tiles. Massive variation is allowed in all dimensions.

Check, check, check again. Then shuffle!
 

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