Bathroom Floor tiles coming loose. Advice Please.

I think a key problem is the fact that UFH mesh has been laid upside down.....

The mesh is then floating ontop of the heating wires (red in the photo)) thereby preventing the adhesive from being properly towelled down (through the mesh) onto the substrate. The imprint of the sticky tape on top of the (upside down) webbing can be seen on the back of the tiles....

The other problem is probably incorrect and insufficient thorough mixing of the adhesive, the use of it while it's not still fresh, and poor towelling technique ie failure to achieve to get a good adhesive bed. Finally not bedding each tile down properly. I've not found buttering of tiles to be necessary.....though i've only used porcelain tiles. The central heating pipes under the floor may have also caused the adhesive to dry off preventing proper bedding in.

I would doubt if there is any problem with the primer supplied with the UFH. Actually, I would always use thermal insulation boards on top of the substrate as the extra cost of these is soon repaid by the energy savings. Also I've only used BAL single part fastflex with UHF, and take great care when trowelling not to damage the heating wires.

One last point is that if the substrate had have been chipboard then the chipboard would have unfairly got all the blame! and other problems may have been missed. I've had no problems tiling on chipboard floors, but within the forum, i've noted that chipboard seems to get blamed for all tiling problems, and encourages, i think, unnecessary complication, and cost, of using ply overlay, backer boards, decoupling membranes ditra etc.

I'd suggest you start again, get the UFH tested to see if it can be re-used, get thermal boards, and BAL single part fastflex, take extra care with mixing and applying the adhesive, and bedding in the tiles.

good luck
 
Hello, check what Mapei say, but usually the recommendation is NOT to prime the plywood prior to tiling (only prime the underside and edges). But as others have suggested, I wouldn't be happy about tiling directly onto all that UFH mesh. Burying the matt in SLC first is a much more reliable method, and allows quicker tiling with a more consistent finish. Good luck sorting it out, it's never fun to have to redo work.
 
Somethings moved to make the tiles pop off. Could be that you should have primed the underside first and now the ply has bowed up. Fitting the underfloor heating upside down should not cause the problem. I always glue (expanding foam, takes the squeak out of floors) and screw the ply down, then use backer boards, did you use zinc coated screws? Not that that would cause a problem early on.
 
Hi Mate

We are very experienced tilers and I am flooring contractor too.

We were really like to use mapei adhesives especially flexible but unfortunately there something happen to their tile glue.

The adhesive what you have used is quite new on the market and I have tried it recently and believe me it is not your fault .

The adhesive is suitable for concrete floor maybe and it dries long time , 3 days but for sure it is not flexible .

Mapei wasted my project and I will be claiming money back for materials at least.

Regards
Marek
 

Advertisement

Which tile adhesive brand did you use most this year?

  • Palace

    Votes: 9 5.2%
  • Kerakoll

    Votes: 17 9.9%
  • Ardex

    Votes: 12 7.0%
  • Mapei

    Votes: 49 28.5%
  • Ultra Tile

    Votes: 21 12.2%
  • BAL

    Votes: 40 23.3%
  • Wedi

    Votes: 4 2.3%
  • Benfer

    Votes: 5 2.9%
  • Tilemaster

    Votes: 24 14.0%
  • Weber

    Votes: 19 11.0%
  • Other (any other brand not listed)

    Votes: 17 9.9%
  • Nicobond

    Votes: 8 4.7%
  • Norcros

    Votes: 2 1.2%
  • Kelmore

    Votes: 5 2.9%
Back
Top

Click Here to Register for Free / Remove Ad