bathroom job advice

[cam_low]

A while back I asked a question about the weight issue. Now I told the customer to change their tiles as they were sold porcelain 25kg/m2 tiles which were to be fixed onto a skim over blocks.

It has come back to haunt me with the cusomter now saying they want to keep the tiles...

So where do I go from here, Yorkshire tiles have recommended fixing hardi backer boards.
How would I fix these to the walls ? Would I have to remove the skim?
Any other issues ?

I have advised to reboard the whole room as the tiles are only going one metre.
Should the hardi boards be fitted over the skim and the tiles are then fixed there will be a sizable ledge and imo leaving the finish crap.

Could I tile straight onto what is presumably breeze blocks after priming ?

grrrr what a life

thanks people.

 

[doug boardley]

but what's between the red brick and the final plaster (skim) coat, is it sand and cement? it can't be skim straight onto red brick!:dizzy2:

 

[White Room]

Probably a standard london brick, All quality bricks were used on the external front of the house

 

[doug boardley]

Probably a standard london brick, All quality bricks were used on the external front of the house

was wondering what base coat whitebeam, and could skim coat be removed to tile onto,hopefully, sand and cement:ninja:

 

[cam_low]

well im going round to the job in the morning hopefully to take off the skim and hoping that there is a sand cement base coat. He said he got the screwdriver through it no bother to around 5/8 of an inch.

 

[White Room]

Sounds like gypsum, Would've struggled with sand/cement unless it's a really weak mix

 

[cam_low]

so if its gypsum board and i get shot of all the plaster I'll be ok to tile onto the boards?

If they are shot I could dot and dab some handy boards all the way round ?

 

[doug boardley]

what whitebeam is saying , is that it's a gypsum base coat ie browning, personally I would hack it all off and then d & d plasterboard onto brick walls. If you d&d onto existing you're just adding more weight to what could be an unstable substrate

 

[cam_low]

sorry doug that is what i actually meant too but I didnt explain it too clearly. Nor have I come across this browning. Can you tell me a bit about it please. I'll google it in the mean time thanks.

edit

broken link removed

 

[White Room]

A backing for plaster for solid backgrounds of moderate suction with an adequate mechanical key

 

[doug boardley]

It's a lightweight gypsum based base coat, designed,I think, for insulation purposes, when I was plastering mainly I hated the stuff!! hated spreading ir and hated skimming onto it! If you go in peoples living rooms where browning's been used you can usually see dents in the wall where furniture etc has damaged it.Certainly not a substrate that I would tile onto!

 

[doug boardley]

whilst I was typing Whitebeam was posting a more concise reply!

 

[cam_low]

Whats the best way to hack it off lads ?

 

[White Room]

An sds or hammer and bolster all depends how well it's stuck mate, Get it between the plaster and wall. Browning is really soft

 

[cam_low]

ah yes, i know the stuff now I assume its gonna be a good many hours. Ive got an sds with a 2.5" chisel end so this may be a picture project to show u all lol.

There was something else I was going to ask but I can remember. Just thought there Im going to have to join the boards, last time i used a skim of addy, will that be ok or shall I do it the right way with joining tape etc?

 

[White Room]

If your going to join the boards use addy if your tiling on top but I've done it if your using spf have'nt worried about any joining the square edged boards and hav'nt had a problem, Your choice at the end of the day though