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C

charlie1

I know this has been brought up before but what do you all use? Here is my method, using 2 x 1 timber i batton off for the bottom row then screw to wall adjusting all the way along using laser level, then i fix my 1st row and run my laser level along them using wedges to allign them to as near perfection as i can get.

I would like to start using some boxed aluminium for battons for real precision instead of timber? Anyone got any suggestions of where to get them, and... what do you guys do for 1st row?
 
S

Stewart

I do it like this...
519751f6-479e-129d.jpg
519751f6-48c2-e9d5.jpg



Created on iPhone.....
 
C

charlie1

I always look along the length of a piece of timber for battens to check for staightness. Don't see much point in buying a squint piece.
How many different lengths will you carry of the aluminium? That's presuming that you are going to re-use them.
I'll stick to timber battens and cut them to suit the situation.

Or are you taking up cheerleading?:lol:


Lol, yeah its late and im tired. There is no such thing as a strtaight piece of timber imo!
 
K

kendo1

ive got the bare cheek to go into b and q...i pick up a level and walk to the timber section...split open the kiln dried batons packs of 8...and check them for straightness...i take the straight ones and leave the bent ones and leave the level...;)
That's the kind of thing I do, pick up a tape or saw and use it/leave it. I thought it was just me.
Maybe it's a Scottish thing?
 

John Benton

TF
Arms
2,203
1,138
Leeds
ive got the bare cheek to go into b and q...i pick up a level and walk to the timber section...split open the kiln dried batons packs of 8...and check them for straightness...i take the straight ones and leave the bent ones and leave the level...;)

I use my local timber merchant and get planed lengths with no knots in, they tend to be pretty good. Normally get a 5m cut it to 3 and 2m and that does me one or two jobs. Much cheaper than BnQ
 

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