best tubbed adhesive for floors!?

[Droopy]

Yeah in his 1st post i believe.

I thought it was a wind up at first.

I think that is where, deanotile's, rant stems from then.:yes:

 

[White Room]

Nicobond do one.
They even reckon it will stick to the dreaded anhydrite screeds:surprised:

I'm sure I had a tub of that once it's so gritty, As you trowel on the wall half just rolls off, It stuck to every thing except where you wanted it to. It was KAK

 

[Gazzer]

Nicobond do one.
They even reckon it will stick to the dreaded anhydrite screeds:surprised:

Nicobond Tile To Timber

A ready mixed, waterproof, beige coloured acrylic emulsion based adhesive for interior tiling direct onto timber
surfaces. Exceeds the performance requirements of BS EN 12004 and BS 5980.
Uses
A thin bed adhesive for the bonding of ceramic tiles, mosaic, quarry and natural stone tiles. Designed for bonding to:-
 Timber clad floors, walls and timber work surfaces  Tongued and Grooved floorboards (rigidly fixed)  MDF, Plywood,
Chipboard (flooring grades)  Tile backing boards, e.g., Aquapanel.
Also suitable for tiling onto:-
 Boxed in pipework and ducting  Sand/cement renders and screeds
 Gypsum plaster, plasterboards and anhydrite floors  Mild or galvanized steel.
Maximum bed thickness 3mm.
Features
 Highly flexible  Class AA performance  Very high bond strength  Versatile  Waterproof  Ready mixed
 Easy to apply and spread  Tile direct to T & G boards  No need to prime.
Surface Preparation
Surface to be tiled must be screwed down and sufficiently rigid to receive ceramic tiling. See also page 64
Application
Please refer to 67
Note
Not suitable for tiling to plastics, fibreglass or magnesite floors. Nicobond Tile To Timber should not be used for fixing
lighter colour or absorbent natural stones since staining may occur. If in doubt always test a sample tile prior to fixing
and allow adhesive to fully set.

 

[White Room]

It's still KAK

 

[Gazzer]

Theres that word again..."Waterproof"

 

[Droopy]

I'm sure I had a tub of that once it's so gritty, As you trowel on the wall half just rolls off, It stuck to every thing except where you wanted it to. It was KAK

Yeah, i used it once.
It was being pushed by one of their reps. so i gave it a try.
It was on a small bathroom floor i used it. Never had any comebacks, but i just didn't like the idea of a readymix on floors for some reason. So i've not used it since.

I see in the spec that it can be used for vitrified tiles, but i was told it was no good for porcelain.:huh2:
Surely shomeone has mad a mishtake there:lol:

 

[sWe]

I can count the times I've used dispersion adhesives on five fingers, and those were times I didn't supply.

I nearly always use cement based adhesives, because they're pretty much always better (if you choose a product suited to the job at hand, of course), and the choices are so many, you can almost always find something which matches the requirements of the job, and your style of working.

My five cents, are these:

If you're worried about the stuff going dry in your bucket, choose products with a long bucket life!
If you're also a fairly slow tiler, choose something with an extended open time!

A couple of examples:

• Ardex X7 and X7+ (for both floors and walls) has a bucket life of 5 hours, and an open time of approx 30 minutes.
• X77 (usable on both floors and walls) has a bucket life of 3 hours, and an open time of approx 60 minutes.
• MAPEI Adisilex P9 (for walls) has a bucket life of approx 8 hours, and an open time of approx 30 minutes.
• MAPEI Keraflex (for floors) has a bucket life of approx 8 hours, and an open time of approx 30 minutes.

Have a look in my guides thread (link in my signature), and read through Choosing adhesive and grout with standards as a guide.

If you take the content of that guide to heart, you'll be (better) equipped to venture forth into the realm of cement based adhesives and grouts, and to choose to your hearts delights. Or something



Seriously people. If he doesn't know better, he doesn't know better. I believe our function as more experienced tilers, on these forums, is to educate the inexperienced as far as we are able. We shouldn't hand them their balls when they come asking for advice I'm not saying it's been done excessively in this particular thread, but there's been a bit of ball snatching lately, and I don't feel it's necessary in cases such as this one.

Cheerio...

 

[smurf21]

spenny if your unsure about which of the many thousands of addy to use then stick to bal for now white star / green star on the walls and rapid set floor adhesieve(powder on conc floors) and two part fast flex on timber floors (overboard as necessary and any polimer mod adhesive for porc wall and floor you wont go far wrong but allways read manufacturers instructions

and just dont knock to much at a time

speed will come with experiance

and dont forget to check weight and load bearing capabilities of wall surfaces for large format wall tiles as these may also require powdered addy

 

[sWe]

spenny if your unsure about which of the many thousands of addy to use then stick to bal for now white star / green star on the walls and rapid set floor adhesieve(powder on conc floors) and two part fast flex on timber floors (overboard as necessary and any polimer mod adhesive for porc wall and floor you wont go far wrong but allways read manufacturers instructions

Indeed. Always read and follow manufacturer instructions. Alot can be learned from reading them as well.

My advice would not be to stick to what you know though, atleast not for long, if your knowledge and experience is limited. Get some variety if you can. Always doing the same things, the same way, with the same materials, breeds complacency, and that won't make you a better tiler. Of course, don't rush headlong into unknown territory; prepare. It is important to not be afraid, but it is even more important to come prepared.

Try to get a good grasp of the theory by reading up on material specs and instructions from different brands, and then ask around for the best ways of applying said theory. Practise whenever you can. Challenge yourself, and your ways. Then you'll become a great tiler

 

[brian c]

As Dave says always ask if unsure and you will be helped out .

 

[GazTech]

spenny if your unsure about which of the many thousands of addy to use then stick to bal for now white star / green star on the walls and rapid set floor adhesieve(powder on conc floors) and two part fast flex on timber floors (overboard as necessary and any polimer mod adhesive for porc wall and floor you wont go far wrong but allways read manufacturers instructions

and just dont knock to much at a time

speed will come with experiance

and dont forget to check weight and load bearing capabilities of wall surfaces for large format wall tiles as these may also require powdered addy

Cracking post smurf.....Gaz :yes:

 

[spenny]

can i ask what will not doubt come across as a brain dead question!?
Other than the time it takes to set,what exactly is wrong with using a tubbed adhesive on floors,why would they come up as one poster says?

 

[Fekin]

It's all down to how flexible the adhesive is once it has set mate.In general, wall tile adhesive dose not need to be flexi as the tile just sits there3 on the wall, where as a floor tile is walked on with weight and pressure, so the adhesive for floor tiles needs to be able to withstand the pressures of being walked on.

 

[grumpygrouter]

In addition to Fekins answer, floor tiles are usually larger format i.e 300x300mm or bigger. With tubbed adhesive, it is possible that the adhesive would not fully dry out at all as the moisture just can not get out.

 

[spenny]

alright-think its been very useful posting this thread-thank you to everyone