Board of choice

[swanman]

Tile backer board
i do use it for strenghting.

 

[adambrock]

100% strong gear that!

 

[mike1979]

mark williams is your man to speak to at the cardiif branch.

Yes I spoke to him yesterday he sorted it all out for me seem like a nice bloke

 

[One Day]

Wooden floors have to be overboarded for several reasons. Strengthen existing floor, strengthen against horizontal stresses.
Give a flat surface for tiling (waterproof system if needed) to name a few

I know that!
What I was getting at is - the reason/s you are overboarding will dictate your choice of materials.
I don't see how NMP can cover all bases.
In my experience 6mm cement/silica boards are only suitable for small floors free of excessive deflection.

 

[Stef]

Ye that's were I get mine from slightly cheaper I think after a little haggling £8.30 and they said if I carry on getting them from them you'll look into lowering again. they have a few branches round the country including one in Liverpool about 3 miles from me

Get them to drop it off at the P&W..
A win win in my book..

 

[High Peak Tiling]

I know that!
What I was getting at is - the reason/s you are overboarding will dictate your choice of materials.
I don't see how NMP can cover all bases.
In my experience 6mm cement/silica boards are only suitable for small floors free of excessive deflection.

Sorry mate, I wasn't sure if you are a pro or just a novice asking a question.

My thread (this one) has answered and helped with choosing the the right board for different situations. As far as where you cut the line for big meterage over a large floor.. i don't know.
i wouldn't go sticking matting on floor boards though.
I haven't personally come across a job big enough to pose the question of what else to use.
But faced with a 'large' floor, floor boarded throughout would still need to be strengthened, What would you do Impish?

 

[High Peak Tiling]

I don't think NMP is waterproof

the board itself is said by manufacturer to be impervious

 

[White Room]

the board itself is said by manufacturer to be impervious

They do but it's a cement board so I like to try a water test on some....

 

[High Peak Tiling]

They do but it's a cement board so I like to try a water test on some....

my supplier has a NMP show case on the counter which has a piece of board one side and water on the top of it.. bottom tray of display is dry

- - - Updated - - -

my supplier has a NMP show case on the counter which has a piece of board one side and water on the top of it.. bottom tray of display is dry

Little box about 200x200x50

 

[White Room]

Just watched there video and once fixed they say prime with sbr primer, if it's waterproof why the need to prime...

 

[One Day]

Sorry mate, I wasn't sure if you are a pro or just a novice asking a question.

My thread (this one) has answered and helped with choosing the the right board for different situations. As far as where you cut the line for big meterage over a large floor.. i don't know.
i wouldn't go sticking matting on floor boards though.
I haven't personally come across a job big enough to pose the question of what else to use.
But faced with a 'large' floor, floor boarded throughout would still need to be strengthened, What would you do Impish?

No worries! (I know one end of a trowel from the other by now anyway!)
I've a 70smq floor soon which is all 5" t&g boards. I plan on getting under the floor to fix extra props (if needed) and extra noggins (definitely needed).
Then it's 18mm wbp ply with millions (maybe a few less) of screws and I'll use fixed movement joints at doorways.

 

[High Peak Tiling]

No worries! (I know one end of a trowel from the other by now anyway!)
I've a 70smq floor soon which is all 5" t&g boards. I plan on getting under the floor to fix extra props (if needed) and extra noggins (definitely needed).
Then it's 18mm wbp ply with millions (maybe a few less) of screws and I'll use fixed movement joints at doorways.

May I ask why Wbp instead of backer board?

 

[One Day]

May I ask why Wbp instead of backer board?

I want to add strength to the floor and reduce deflection.
Compare the rigidity of a 6 or even a 10mm backerboard with a same size piece of 18mm ply and it's a no-brainer.

This customer has had a failed floor in their last home and they accept that this is the belt & braces way which I will guarantee.

Smaller floors with less deflection I would generally be happy to use Wedi board as it's lighter and faster and gives a strong bond.

I don't like fixing to ply but in this case it appears to be the best option.
I'll be careful where I source the ply and I'll be filing the invoices - just in case!

 

[High Peak Tiling]

I want to add strength to the floor and reduce deflection.
Compare the rigidity of a 6 or even a 10mm backerboard with a same size piece of 18mm ply and it's a no-brainer.

This customer has had a failed floor in their last home and they accept that this is the belt & braces way which I will guarantee.

Smaller floors with less deflection I would generally be happy to use Wedi board as it's lighter and faster and gives a strong bond.

I don't like fixing to ply but in this case it appears to be the best option.
I'll be careful where I source the ply and I'll be filing the invoices - just in case!

You have reminded me of a job i have done a 78m2 boarded floor. I used 18mm Birch ply. this was because all the local ply i could source was crappy far eastern ply which had layers de-laminating.