Can anyone give me a bit of advice?

[chris.s]

Hello. I was after a bit of advice from the people in the know.
I am planning to re-tile my quadrant shower enclosure but am slightly concerned that when I remove the old tile I am likely to remove a fair bit of plaster/render as well.
I am planning on tanking the enclosure with a mapei kit before installing mosaic tiles. I would like to get the bulk of the work done over one weekend if possible.
What I would like some advice on is what type of filler would be safe to use? The tanking kit says that you should leave the following minimum drying times;
Gypsum plaster-4 weeks (one week for skim coat),
Cement/sand render-2 weeks
Concrete-6 weeks
I have heard that you can use rapid set tile adhesive to fill deep holes by building up several layers, is this true and if so would it make a suitable base for the liquid membrane, once it has been primed?
I do not actually know the depth or extent of any holes as I've not taken the tiles off yet.
I have solid brick walls, not plasterboard.
Any tips, tricks or advice would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks in advance.

 

[charlie1]

You will probably find the tiles will come off fairly easy and if they do leave holes, yes they can be filled with rapid set adhesive. Then tanking

 

[White Room]

I've used a rapid render from Bal and used for external work and found it excellent, sets in a couple of hours...BAL Adhesives - Products - quickset render

 

[chris.s]

Thanks for the quick responses.
Does anyone have any experience of wickes rapid set adhesive? I was thinking of using that as I've got to go in there tomorrow anyway.
Thanks again.

 

[kilty55]

take back to the brick and dot and dab the area......then tank is a solution

 

[cam_low]

I would take all the old plasterboard out everytime, as it will more than likely take you just as long if not longer carefully removing the tiles. Dot and dab the plasterboard on, tank the area and tile. Job done, no worries.

 

[charlie1]

Think wickes addy is made by weber

 

[Ceramico tiling]

If your substrate is ok once the tiles are removed. Fill all deep gaps with adhesive then skim the whole area with the same adhesive.If you have used rapidset you will be able to catch it going off fairly quickly.At that point you can use the back of your trowel to scrape it nice and flat.This will give you a nice surface for your mosaics.

 

[charliesw4]

Wickes addy is fine

 

[chris.s]

Hi there.
Some progress has been made, however I think I might have opened a can of worms.
I have now removed the shower enclosure and the old tiles. The render behind these however is in a pretty bad state with large areas patched in and filled and other bits blown.
My thoughts now are to take all the render off back to the brickwork, then attach a backer board directly to the bricks, I do not have the depth needed to fit a timber frame to the wall.
I have seen several posts and suggestions on how to do this but I don't really know the pros and cons of each so if I let you all know my thoughts perhaps someone with the necessary knowledge can tell me what to do.
Aquapanel - I have read that this cannot be dot and dabbed directly to masonry, however I have also read that if you anchor through the board into the brick then this is suitable.
Hardibacker board- As far as I can make out this can be dot and dabbed directly to the masonry although it doesn't seem to be so widely available.
I realise that neither of these are technically waterproof so I intend to use the liquid tanking membrane I already bought over the top prior to tiling to prevent problems down the line.
Sorry this post is a bit rambling, but I don't know what the best solution is and I would like to do the job right.
Cheers.

 

[White Room]

If your using a liquid tanking why not just dot and dab plasterboard to the wall.....

 

[chris.s]

If your using a liquid tanking why not just dot and dab plasterboard to the wall.....

I have heard that it can be a little difficult to get an even layer of the liquid membrane on the wall so I was thinking that a water resistant backing board might be a safer solution.
I want to minimise the chances of things going wrong at a later date now that I've got an opportunity to start from scratch.
Am I going over the top?

 

[White Room]

What about Marmox boards, only need to tank the joints....

 

[chris.s]

Marmox boards sound good. Do you know if they can be dot and dabbed onto the wall? The bricks are quite uneven so I need a bit of a gap so that I can level it off before tiling.
Do you know any companys that stock the boards? I've only been able to find them for delivery.
I'm in Bristol by the way.
Thanks.

 

[White Room]

Try these guys and they can be dot and dabbed but screwed to the wall with a special washer Waterproof Insulation Boards - PHG Wetrooms

 

[chris.s]

Hello.
I've now got several sheets of hardiebacker board to line my shower enclosure. I spoke to their customer support team the other day and was told that I need to use galvanised screws (I'm guessing masonry screws) to mechanically fix them to the wall in addition to dot and dabbling them.
Does anyone have any experience of doing this and could someone please tell me where I can get a galvanised masonry screw.
I'm getting a bit fed up of having to take baths.
Thanks.

 

[Martino]

screwfix or toolstation would be good for your screws, basically you want screws that wont rust, although they say dont dot and dat it to a wall, personally i would to get it flat/straight easier, once its set then screw and plug them to the wall through where you dot and dabbed ....unless your wall is perfectly flat just screw it lol!!

 

[chris.s]

screwfix or toolstation would be good for your screws, basically you want screws that wont rust

This is where I am having a slight problem, I'm not sure how rust resistant I need these screws to be. The ones in toolststion are ' zinc & Yellow Passivated' which are not suitable for exterior use.
http://www.toolstation.com/m/part.html?p=62108
Having said that, if the screws are going to get as wet as if they were outside then I've not tiled my shower very well have I?
Does anyone know if this degree of rust resistance will be sufficient or can anyone recommend a particular type or brand?

 

[White Room]

I use the Turbo screws from screwfix 25mm in length....