Discuss Creating Smooth Gradient Where Wall Has Been Removed in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

T

Thomas Moore

Afternoon all,

Another newbie question here. Got some great advice last time so hoping you might be able to help me out with this one.

We're refurbing a through kitchen / diner. Sometime in the past, a brick wall separated the two rooms. This has been removed and has left a finger-shaped ridge in the floor (approx. 2m x 60cm). The foundation of the old brick wall has been patched up with concrete and the rest of the floor is the residue of bitumen adhesive from 1950s 9x9 vinyl asbestos tiles. The difference in the height of the floor across the width of the concrete 'finger' is about 2-4cm.

I was planning to use SLC on the entire floor and then tile it. However, we've been advised not to, since it will raise the level of the lower section of the floor and create a high step into the room. It's also unnecessary since the two halves of the floor are each reasonably level - just not level with each other! The plan instead is to smooth out the ridge, creating a gentle gradient which can then be tiled.

I've been advised to use a levelling compound and a straight edge to shape a gentle slope ready for tiling. However, I'm stuck trying to find a suitable compound. Presumably I can't use a *self*levelling compound, since it needs to be trowelled on and hold the shape of the slope until set.

Any recommendations on what would work best for this - both in terms of a suitable compound and any tips on technique?

As always, all help and advice is much appreciated, guys.
 
T

Thomas Moore

Sure, here are some photos.

IMG_20151013_120308.jpg IMG_20151013_120346.jpg IMG_20151013_120319.jpg IMG_20151013_120333.jpg
 

widler

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Ok, it's obvious that the 2 floors are not the same height, it happens when they asphalt the floors either side,you can't get them mm perfect, so you take a wall out and you have two different heights, it also may run up a bit .
you canfeather SLC from the high spot and run it as far as you can, don't worry about the SLC running away, just don't mix it to runny and trowel it flat at the edge .
Depending what tile you are using and which layout, you can run your tiles from either side of the 'dip' to lose it .
or you can knock the new stuff up, cut the high floor back a few foot, re fill it and repeat the steps above for a flatter floor, which is the slower option but will make it flatter ;)
 
T

Thomas Moore

Morning guys. Apologies for the delay in answering the questions. I'm attaching a quick floor plan with the rough area of the ridge highlighted in red.

Yes, 3_fall, you're right: both sides are fairly flat (with a gentle slope) but the left-hand side is slightly higher than the right. There are two entrances to the room, one on the left side and one on the right. You can probably see from the first picture that there used to a be a doorway connecting the two halves of the room before the wall was removed. At this point, of course, the floor levels are the same.

The tiles are 662x235x8mm wood-effect ceramic. The plan is to lay them left to right since there's a window at each end of the room. As such, they would lay across the change in level.

Apologies for the confusion over the levels and whether there's a dip in the floor. There isn't a [major] dip; I had laid the spirit level to show the approximate gradient.

widler, that's pretty much what I was thinking but was concerned about the SLC pooling at the lowest point. From what you say, using a thicker SLC mix and trowelling it seems like the easiest option. The portion of the ridge nearest to the wall (with the most severe level change) will be covered by kitchen cabinets, so hopefully the remainder will look OK.

I'll be using LevelFlex SLC in another room. Do you think that a thicker mix of this would be suitable for this job? Presumably, it'll have no problem adhering to the mixture of concrete / bitumen residue provided it's primed first with something like a PrimePlus slurry?

View attachment Floorplans and services.jpg
 
O

Old Mod

With a long tile such that you have may cause you bigger issues!
How is it to be laid Thomas?
A lot of tiles of that format suggest a quarter bond or straight stacked.
Reason being that they are prone to warping, producing a bow!
Have u inspected samples?
The floor will need to be as flat as u can achieve or you will have corners sticking up all across the effected area.
 
T

Thomas Moore

Hmm... I'm beginning to wonder what I've let myself in for :eek:

3_fall: that's pretty much the effect I'm aiming for! On the plan, the tiles would be laid lengthways, left/right. That's a beautiful result you've achieved, by the way.

I've inspected samples of the tiles and they appear to be dead flat without any noticeable bow. Of course, I don't how they'll react after being laid for a period of time.

If the floor needs to be flatter in order to make a good job with the plank tiles, would you recommend using a grinder to reduce the level of the higher section?
 
O

Old Mod

Well if your tiles are true now, they'll stay that way!
U can reduce the height of the area in several ways.
U can hire floor scabbler which is way I'd prob go!
Sod being on my hands and knees chewing rubble and dust haha
Or u can buy grinding cups that fit to an angle grinder or an SDS chisel even.
If you're able to put time and effort in, it will be worth it..
Laying your floor will get easier with ever mm u remove to achieve an even surface.
Doesn't need to be level exactly, just FLAT
And it's better to go slightly lower than u think u need, cos when it comes to the tiling it will be high! Cos it always is! Haha
You can smooth with SLC after if u wish, before u tile.
Dirty messy noisey job, but WORTH IT!
 

widler

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Looks like asphalt to me @3fall, i woukdnt grind it or use a scabbler, it will just break it up,me id break it up a few foot(be about a inch or so on too of prob rough concrete) then fill then screed over,l , ive tiled much worse floors than that in plank tiles ,this one was 4 different rooms and a utility, a right pain to do and 40 bags of leveler later (over EUFH as well) looked good at the end, after a far fair big of chiseling up and leveling
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