festool diamond plunge cutter

[nybor62]

Yes it it mate, Martin last we spoke, said it was ok but didn’t rave about it.
Personally feel £330 can be better spent.
And you can achieve the same thing with a grinder, dust shroud and a straight edge.
Thats just way I look at it tho.

I don't disagree with your comment ive always done like you say , but were working with 1200 x1200 nearly 200m2 bath walls with 3-4 niches in each bathroom, so thought we would try the festool

 

[Cranbrook]

I don't disagree with your comment ive always done like you say , but were working with 1200 x1200 nearly 200m2 bath walls with 3-4 niches in each bathroom, so thought we would try the festool

Ive got the bosch dust shroud attached to the bosch grinder it was designed for, with a marcrist blade and a clampable straight edge from toolstation.. Works great

 

[martin1c]

I don't disagree with your comment ive always done like you say , but were working with 1200 x1200 nearly 200m2 bath walls with 3-4 niches in each bathroom, so thought we would try the festool

I think it's a good product. My gripe with it was that I thought it would be a GREAT product with the Festool name on it.

I wouldn't get rid of it as it's my go-to cutter when I am working with Marble or large format tiles and I don't want to be going outside for every cut. As I've said, try different blades, trim the splinter guard back and on long cuts, do 2 or 3 passes for best results

 

[Old Mod]

I don't disagree with your comment ive always done like you say , but were working with 1200 x1200 nearly 200m2 bath walls with 3-4 niches in each bathroom, so thought we would try the festool

When you have a project like that you can easily justify and even loose the cost. So yes, under those conditions it’s a good move, for sure.
There is one very important thing to remember tho when using an electric cutter on a rail.
You get zero feedback thro the tool, why does that matter?
Well It matters a great deal that your rail and tile are sat on a flat surface, and that the rail must exactly mimic the tile.
Basically your rail will remain dead straight, your tile may not, it may bow up or down in the middle.
Therefore the cutter will remain on a true straight cut, and because there is no feedback like there is by hand, it just carries on cutting regardless and if the tile is not completely flush with the rail, the cut will not be straight and true.
But by hand because you can feel the cut and the density of the tile, you self adjust as you travel down it’s length whether you realise it or not.
For example, if you are doing a mitre with it and it’s set for a 2mm edge at the start of your cut and the tile drops in the middle because of a bow, as you approach the middle with a rail the blade will drift closer to the leading edge because the tile is dropping.
So what maybe 2mm atthe beginning, could be 0.5mm if your tile drops by a mil and a half in the middle.
Does that make sense?

 

[Waluigi]

Makes sense to me.

 

[nybor62]

yes makes sense

 

[david mccullough]

i bought an angle grinder out of halfords with soft start works the best and only £21.00😉
i've bought all the toys over the years and track saws and end up with a grinder and as good quality blade🙁
i hope you stick at it and get better use out of it than i have