Fixing into Hardiebacker

[jond500]

Hi All,

What is the best way of fixing into Hardibacker (12mm) Do you use rawlplugs etc. or a hollow wall fixing? The Hardi is screwed to studwork and is now tiled.

All I need to fix is the rail for the shower, the water is fed from the digital controller in the loft through the rail and then a small wireless controller for the shower.

The shower screen is glass but that's not really an issue as I was able to fix an additional stud prior to fixing the Hardi to screw into.

Cheers,

Jon.

 

[cam_low]

personally I used to screw in using turbo gold scews into studwork and the same for 6mm flooring grade.

Don't ever use it now as there are better products out there.

 

[jond500]

Thanks,

The Hardi is already on the walls and tiled (Fixed with stainless steel screws into studwork)

Need to know how to fix stuff to the walls now it's tiled

Cheers,

Jon.

 

[cam_low]

I do apologise I completely misread your original question. I use rawl plugs with lugs on them.

What is the composite of tiles you are fixing into?

Try not to use the grout lines as the drill may shatter more of the tile off than you require.

Cheers

 

[jond500]

No problem

The tiles are ceramic 500x200mm I am planning to drill the holes as close to the centre of the tiles as I can and avoid the grout lines. When I fix into masonry I always avoid the mortar where possible to get a stronger fixing At least if I can use rawlplugs then I can also use stainless steel screws

I have bought a diamond core drill and suction jig to assist me but am going to drill some test holes in one of the original sample tiles. I have never drilled tiles before but have watched some of the 365drills video's on youtube to get an idea how to do so.

On another point can I drill the holes before I grout? I'm just thinking in case I muller a tile it may be a bit easier to replace the tile if anything does go wrong.

Cheers,

Jon.

 

[Ian]

I quite often drill the holes before I grout so the dust isn't going over new grout, just pop a bit of masking tape over the holes before you grout.

 

[cam_low]

as above with bri before grouting always. ceramics put out some dirty dust!

 

[jond500]

Many many thanks for the advice from all on this thread and all the others I have posted.

This is a DIY job and after finding this forum the job has taken a LOT longer than planned; however that's not a problem as it's going to be done right and not fail, I have learnt a hell of a lot and really appreciate how hard tiling is!! I have done a couple of little bits before but learn more every time. The biggest problem is my background as an aircraft engineer.... It has to be perfect.. I have pulled several tiles off the wall as I wasn't happy with them (while the addy was still wet) and then re fixed until perfect.

I do have one more question but will post it in a separate thread as it's completely unrelated to this one.

If Dan\the forum\members would appreciate it I will write up a before tilersforum plan and what the job actually turned into and how i did it with pictures before\during and the finished job.

Cheers,

Jon.

 

[Ian]

I'd like to read that Jon.

 

[cam_low]

get it 'written' down.


now I know where to come when I need my airbus serviced on the cheap

 

[Dan]

I'd love to see that. Thank you.

 

[trevortine]

personally I used to screw in using turbo gold scews into studwork and the same for 6mm flooring grade.

Don't ever use it now as there are better products out there.

whats that then?

 

[Dan]

Turbo gold screws?

They the ones with two threads on them?

 

[trevortine]

Turbo gold screws?

They the ones with two threads on them?

Ahem, I meant the better product than hardie Dan!!!

 

[cam_low]

I use jackoboards for almost every installation these days.

lightweight. Thermally efficient. No silica. Cheaper!