Discuss fixing plaster board in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

T

tiler burden

hi mate

use what dave says, nothing else..

1, cut all you boards first ready to fix
2. mix you addy in a bucket, it must be thick enough to hang on to your trowel when turned upside down.
3. dab on the wall every 12 in as you say, so if its a 8x4 board you want 5 along the top and 9 up the side and in corresponding lines vertically.
4. use a trowel or the rear of a bucket trowel to slap the dabs on, they need to be around 25mm thick minand the boards will press in about 12.5mm allowing for any cables to go down the back etc.
5. tap the board with a 6ft straight edge/level at either side, then when you have fixed 2 boards side by side, put your straight edge across the boards horizontally, to ensure they dont dip in , in the middle. do this till you reach the end of the wall. you can put a square in the corners aswell to make sure everything is spot on
6. keep the boards off the floor by place 2 off cuts of plaster boards under the 8x4 or 6x3 boards (stops water penetration/damp)
7. finally, ensure there is a full dab of adhesive around all sockets and switches to ensure pressure testing.
8, finally finally...if the walls are really old and dusty, brush down and wet, or even seal with water and pva at around 4to1 ratio.
if its newish block/brick work , then just get em up


hope this helps

ed
 
Last edited by a moderator:
R

Raja

hi mate

use what dave says, nothing else..

1, cut all you boards first ready to fix
2. mix you addy in a bucket, it must be thick enough to hang on to your trowel when turned upside down.
3. dab on the wall every 12 in as you say, so if its a 8x4 board you want 5 along the top and 9 up the side and in corresponding lines vertically.
4. use a trowel or the rear of a bucket trowel to slap the dabs on, they need to be around 25mm thick minand the boards will press in about 12.5mm allowing for any cables to go down the back etc.
5. tap the board with a 6ft straight edge/level at either side, then when you have fixed 2 boards side by side, put your straight edge across the boards horizontally, to ensure they dont dip in , in the middle. do this till you reach the end of the wall. you can put a square in the corners aswell to make sure everything is spot on
6. keep the boards off the floor by place 2 off cuts of plaster boards under the 8x4 or 6x3 boards (stops water penetration/damp)
7. finally, ensure there is a full dab of adhesive around all sockets and switches to ensure pressure testing.
8, finally finally...if the walls are really old and dusty, brush down and wet, or even seal with water and pva at around 4to1 ratio.
if its newish block/brick work , then just get em up


hope this helps

ed
excellent post very informative thank you
 
S

sibs

Can I dot n dab plasterboard or hardibacker onto painted artex walls using dry wall adhesive without having to screw it down as well? My concern with screwing is that I can't see weather there are any cables or pipes behind the walls and obviously don't want to screw into these. The walls seem very solid and it is just for the purposes of creating a flat surface on which to tile. I am a bit concerned about the fact that the walls have been painted but I am loath to start messing with the artex because of the possibility that there may be asbestos in it so would rather just board over the lot! (Its in a bathroom) Will this be a strong enough method or do I really need to screw it? The tiles will be 150 x 150
Thanks gang!
 
D

DHTiling

Hi sibs....
Unless you screw and plug it you can't be 100% sure it will hold to the painted artex.....either remove the artex and start a-fresh or use a cable/ pipe detector and screw and plug..you can use dry wall adhesive yes if you decide to dot&dab...leave to dry and then screw and plug....( washers as well)...........
 

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