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Discuss Gap on non square wall in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

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Willmort

Hi Just went back to check on tiler - who wasn't there and there was a gap running up the corners - the tiles fit snuggly at the bottom but as it goes up the wall the gap gets bigger is there a way round this as thin slithers of the glass tile is gong to be very tricky surely? tile2.gif
 

AliGage

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I can't really understand from the pictures what is being tiled. Is it a shower area/cubicle? Are they sheet mosaic?

Looking at the adhesive i would have a stab at saying he's usinf BAL white star on glass tiles. tut tut!!

Has he started from a full sheet on the left hand side of the second picture? Looks like very poor prep is the issue here. I.E your tiler is not a professional tiler!
 
D

Divad

May I respectfully ask Willmort to talk to your tiler about how he intends to prettify the corners rather than coming on here and inciting a character assassination by the frenzy of know-of-it-alls who can not only deem this workman to be unprofessional, but also seem to magically know what tile adhesive he has used with their X-ray vision.

And for the members shooting off about this tiler, perhaps you should reserve judgement until you have walked a mile in the other man's shoes. The OP already said, it's an out of square wall. With mosaics.
 
D

Deleted member 9966

May I respectfully ask Willmort to talk to your tiler about how he intends to prettify the corners rather than coming on here and inciting a character assassination by the frenzy of know-of-it-alls who can not only deem this workman to be unprofessional, but also seem to magically know what tile adhesive he has used with their X-ray vision.

And for the members shooting off about this tiler, perhaps you should reserve judgement until you have walked a mile in the other man's shoes. The OP already said, it's an out of square wall. With mosaics.

Divad, whilst many people will see your point of view, the point of this forum is to allow free speech about all matters tiling-related. If you disagree with a person's response, and are so incensed by it, may I suggest that you no longer continue to view the post. Dave has already warned you that continuing to TROLL the forum and cause increased Moderation of the forum will lead to your account being removed. Please refrain from reporting posts that upset you, and contact Dave http://www.tilersforums.com/members/1915.html or Dan View Profile: Dan - tilersforums.com | Tiling Forum | Wall and Floor Tiling Forum | Tile Forums | Tilers Forum via private message.
 

AliGage

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May I respectfully ask Willmort to talk to your tiler about how he intends to prettify the corners rather than coming on here and inciting a character assassination by the frenzy of know-of-it-alls who can not only deem this workman to be unprofessional, but also seem to magically know what tile adhesive he has used with their X-ray vision.

And for the members shooting off about this tiler, perhaps you should reserve judgement until you have walked a mile in the other man's shoes. The OP already said, it's an out of square wall. With mosaics.

And so speaks the voice of experience?? I would almost be willing to wager that (and this is on the basis of the customer stating it's a BAL product) that the adhesive used in that picture is tubbed adhesive - BAL White star. Yes i can tell from looking in the picture. No i have not got x-ray eyes.

I'm interested to know what you mean by "walking a mile" in his shoes. I've been in the trade for 12 years. Many others on here a heck of a lot longer. I have NEVER found a square, straight, perfect wall to tile yet. I don't believe one exsists, and it's on that very basis that i would state the "tiler" is not a "professional". A large part of the finished article relies on the preperation of the surface you are tiling. To leave a 10mm gap in the corner is in all honesty a "schoolboy" error. If your prep is done correctly and you've worked out your walls correctly there shouldn't be a cut in the corner less than half a tile. If it is you shift your start live (vertical) half a tile to mean the cuts would be between half a tile and full tile.

As for "shooting off" as you put it. I have put a lot of man hours into ensuring i do a professional job, fitted, preped, installed correctly. It's cowboys that don't really have a clue, don't know what they are doing, or don't have the pride in themselves to do a proper job tyhat are the ones that undercut the professionals and the people that make LIVING from doing these trades.

may i ask what you do?
 

AliGage

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Tiler has called back and he says not to worry once its grouted and siliconed I will not notice, my main question was whether as i suspected he blamed it on the walls not being true, and whether this is a valid excuse and something to accept or not?

What size is the enclosure? Is it a 1200 tray? It looks to me like the mosaic sheet are 300mm x 300mm. If he started from one side rather than the centre of the wall, and the walls went out as he went up then that would cause this problem. However, and this is the point i'm trying to make to Divad. 1200/300 leaves a full number. No margin for error, or in this case untrue walls. If the tiler had bridge the centre line with one of the mosaic squares this would of given an inch cut into the corners (25mm) this could of increased as the walls moved out going up. Rather than having slithers of varying sizes on the way up.

If the walls were that bad why attempt to tile mosaics of all things. He should of planned and sorted the walls first IMO.

The only think i will say is that if he's intending on grouting that gap and siliconing over the top then yes you would notice, and personally i would find this unacceptable.
 
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D

Divad

And so speaks the voice of experience?? I would almost be willing to wager that (and this is on the basis of the customer stating it's a BAL product) that the adhesive used in that picture is tubbed adhesive - BAL White star. Yes i can tell from looking in the picture. No i have not got x-ray eyes. I'm interested to know what you mean by "walking a mile" in his shoes. I've been in the trade for 12 years. Many others on here a heck of a lot longer. I have NEVER found a square, straight, perfect wall to tile yet. I don't believe one exsists, and it's on that very basis that i would state the "tiler" is not a "professional". A large part of the finished article relies on the preperation of the surface you are tiling. To leave a 10mm gap in the corner is in all honesty a "schoolboy" error. If your prep is done correctly and you've worked out your walls correctly there shouldn't be a cut in the corner less than half a tile. If it is you shift your start live (vertical) half a tile to mean the cuts would be between half a tile and full tile.As for "shooting off" as you put it. I have put a lot of man hours into ensuring i do a professional job, fitted, preped, installed correctly. It's cowboys that don't really have a clue, don't know what they are doing, or don't have the pride in themselves to do a proper job tyhat are the ones that undercut the professionals and the people that make LIVING from doing these trades. may i ask what you do?
For someone who seems so sure of himself YOU are the one making the schoolboy error. I am a tiler. I have been tiling for 35 years. Started possibly before you were even born. And any professional tiler would know that there is no such thing as a perfect job. EVERY job has its challenges. And until you know all the facts, and why a tiler did what he did, YOU should not be so quick to pass judgement. Or you never know, one day, when you're half way through a job, your customer might post up your unfinished work and I will poke holes all over it and assassinate your character, just as you are doing to this tiler.
 

AliGage

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shower tray is 1000, sheets are 300x300 and yep it looks like white star was used

The walls are newly done and flat - but width differs by ~10mm from top to bottom

White star is not suitable for glass nor should it be used a any thicker bed than 3mm. A call to BAL technical i'm 100% certain would clarifyand confirm this. They would advise BAL mosaicfix for your installation.

I know white star is said to be ok for wet areas, power showers etc. I personally wouldn't use and always go for a powder. It is of MY OPINION that your work is not being carried out correcly. What you do about it i cannot advise. I can only give you my opinion.
 
D

Divad

And so speaks the voice of experience?? I would almost be willing to wager that (and this is on the basis of the customer stating it's a BAL product) that the adhesive used in that picture is tubbed adhesive - BAL White star. Yes i can tell from looking in the picture. No i have not got x-ray eyes. I'm interested to know what you mean by "walking a mile" in his shoes. I've been in the trade for 12 years. Many others on here a heck of a lot longer. I have NEVER found a square, straight, perfect wall to tile yet. I don't believe one exsists, and it's on that very basis that i would state the "tiler" is not a "professional". A large part of the finished article relies on the preperation of the surface you are tiling. To leave a 10mm gap in the corner is in all honesty a "schoolboy" error. If your prep is done correctly and you've worked out your walls correctly there shouldn't be a cut in the corner less than half a tile. If it is you shift your start live (vertical) half a tile to mean the cuts would be between half a tile and full tile.As for "shooting off" as you put it. I have put a lot of man hours into ensuring i do a professional job, fitted, preped, installed correctly. It's cowboys that don't really have a clue, don't know what they are doing, or don't have the pride in themselves to do a proper job tyhat are the ones that undercut the professionals and the people that make LIVING from doing these trades. may i ask what you do?
p.s. Are you a chemist as well? BAL White Star is appropriate for use on mosaic in domestic showers, and is backed by a TWENTY FIVE YEAR GUARANTEE. But of course, YOU disagree, so perhaps you would be so kind as to email their Technical Department (comprising chemists with PhD's) telling them why their product is not suitable to fix mosaics in a domestic shower, and then post their response to you. [DLMURL="http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/white-star"]BAL Adhesives - Products - white star[/DLMURL]
 
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D

Divad

White star is not suitable for glass nor should it be used a any thicker bed than 3mm. A call to BAL technical i'm 100% certain would clarifyand confirm this. They would advise BAL mosaicfix for your installation.I know white star is said to be ok for wet areas, power showers etc. I personally wouldn't use and always go for a powder. It is of MY OPINION that your work is not being carried out correcly. What you do about it i cannot advise. I can only give you my opinion.
[DLMURL="http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/white-star"]BAL Adhesives - Products - white star[/DLMURL]
 
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AliGage

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p.s. Are you a chemist as well? BAL White Star is appropriate for use on mosaic in domestic showers, and is backed by a TWENTY FIVE YEAR GUARANTEE. But of course, YOU disagree, so perhaps you would be so kind as to email their Technical Department (comprising chemists with PhD's) telling them why their product is not suitable to fix mosaics in a domestic shower, and then post their response to you. [DLMURL="http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/white-star"]BAL Adhesives - Products - white star[/DLMURL]

Correct.

But to quote the technical instructions for White star:
Suitable for fixing ceramics (upto 300mm square), mosaics and some natural stone in dry and wet areas.
Not suitable for GLASS or of bed depths exceeding 3mm

Do you want BAL's number? I'll wager you £100 for every year you've been a "tiler" that they say it is NOT i repeat NOT suitable for fixing glass mosaic!
 
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D

Divad

Correct. But to quote the technical instructions for White star:Suitable for fixing ceramics (upto 300mm square), mosaics and some natural stone in dry and wet areas.Not suitable for GLASS or of bed depths exceeding 3mm Do you want BAL's number? I'll wager you £100 for every year you've been a "tiler" that they say it is NOT i repeat NOT suitable for fixing glass mosaic!
NOWHERE in their technical sheet does it say "NOT SUITABLE FOR GLASS". Tell me, how many other types of mosaic are there? There's natural stone. And???? Glass perhaps?If you want to have a proper row with me, then take it offline. It can't be good for forum decorum for us to be bickering like this in public.
 
D

Divad

Correct. But to quote the technical instructions for White star:Suitable for fixing ceramics (upto 300mm square), mosaics and some natural stone in dry and wet areas.Not suitable for GLASS or of bed depths exceeding 3mm Do you want BAL's number? I'll wager you £100 for every year you've been a "tiler" that they say it is NOT i repeat NOT suitable for fixing glass mosaic!
p.s. I will take your £100 though. Maybe losing it will teach you some humility towards fellow Tilers.
 

AliGage

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I'm not bickering with you, i'm just disagreeing with you.

But just to add the technical sheet doesn't say it is suitable for glass either. Lists ceramics and some stone though doesn't it. I'm sorry fella you are wrong, i'm not going to back down just because you've got issues here or you want a rant at someone. I urge you to phone BAL's technical support. You will realise that what you are saying is incorrect.

As for everything else, my posts are my opinion. based on the knowledge and experience i have. If i don't have the knowledge or experience i will not advise. Regardless, i'm entitled to my opinion and i do not believe that the job is being carried out correctly. If you don't like being told you're wrong don't post.

Lastly, i'll just bullet note what i have picked up in this thread and why i have advised the way i have. After that i'm done, regardless of whatever the PM you just sent me said. I get the sense that you would argue with anything anyone said on here because you have an underlying issue with someone(s) or this forum in general.

From the pictures and post i identified what the exact adhesive was (tick)
The size of the mosaic sheets and the fact they were glass (tick)
Although i haven't mentioned it the tiler has used a 6mm trowel. (tick)
I have stated how setting out differently would of avoided this problem, and how to adjust this setting ut if this problem becomes apparent (tick)

If you want to say i'm wrong without even following up the technical advice with BAL so be it. Agree to disagree, whatever. I'm confident in what i have posted and leave it down to Willmort to decide what he/she wants to do next.
 
D

Divad

I'm not bickering with you, i'm just disagreeing with you. But just to add the technical sheet doesn't say it is suitable for glass either. Lists ceramics and some stone though doesn't it. I'm sorry fella you are wrong, i'm not going to back down just because you've got issues here or you want a rant at someone. I urge you to phone BAL's technical support. You will realise that what you are saying is incorrect.As for everything else, my posts are my opinion. based on the knowledge and experience i have. If i don't have the knowledge or experience i will not advise. Regardless, i'm entitled to my opinion and i do not believe that the job is being carried out correctly. If you don't like being told you're wrong don't post. Lastly, i'll just bullet note what i have picked up in this thread and why i have advised the way i have. After that i'm done, regardless of whatever the PM you just sent me said. I get the sense that you would argue with anything anyone said on here because you have an underlying issue with someone(s) or this forum in general.From the pictures and post i identified what the exact adhesive was (tick)The size of the mosaic sheets and the fact they were glass (tick)Although i haven't mentioned it the tiler has used a 6mm trowel. (tick)I have stated how setting out differently would of avoided this problem, and how to adjust this setting ut if this problem becomes apparent (tick)If you want to say i'm wrong without even following up the technical advice with BAL so be it. Agree to disagree, whatever. I'm confident in what i have posted and leave it down to Willmort to decide what he/she wants to do next.
You're unbelievable. Talk about passive aggressive. BAL WhiteStar IS perfectly acceptable for fixing GLASS mosaic. As per BAL'S TECHNICAL SHEET which I have already posted.Regarding the 10mm (approximately, but looks smaller) gap at the top of the wall, why don't we ask the OP to take a photo once the job is completed. You never know, the tiler that YOU are accusing of being unprofessional and a cowboy may actually be able to silicone and may make the job look superb.If you're not willing to take this offline and talk to me, then don't bother posting publically any more. I wash my hands with you. Just be warned. You may take great delight rubbishing tilers on here, but what goes around comes around. Show some respect, otherwise no one will have any sympathy with you when your turn comes to be torn apart by keyboard warriors. Bye.
 

AliGage

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I think people are forgetting the OP's original question:mad2:

Is there a way round cutting slithers for the gap? Short of starting again i would say no. Asthetically i don't thihnk slithers would look right. I'm saying that because i believe although i've not seen it in photos that the tiler has started from the left hand corner. So you're going to have a slither one side and a full tile the other. This could have been avoided.
The OP suggests the tiler is going to grout the gap and silicone over the top?? I wouldn't advise that either.

It looks like slithers in one corner is the best and cheapest option. Although i personally wouldn't be happy with that.
 

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