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Discuss Getting my mate to do tiling..pity he cant seem to offer me any advice! in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

T

The D

OK lets do this installation plumber style.
overboard with 6mm ply and nail id down
PVA everything
Silicon the corners no need for expensive tanking kits
use standard adhesive on the floor and make it flexible by adding PVA
use tubed adhesive on the walls this will be ok as the tiles are only 700 by 300
it is not important what grout you use as the whole thing will leak anyway
plumbers I've **** em :thumbsup:
 
OK lets do this installation plumber style.
overboard with 6mm ply and nail id down
PVA everything
Silicon the corners no need for expensive tanking kits
use standard adhesive on the floor and make it flexible by adding PVA
use tubed adhesive on the walls this will be ok as the tiles are only 700 by 300
it is not important what grout you use as the whole thing will leak anyway
plumbers I've **** em :thumbsup:

i think thats what happened to 20sqm on a deck i had a look at a couple of years ago. the owners had just bought the place and wanted to know why the joints were cracked and if i could just replace the grout. i could pick up every tile by hand from a plywood deck. the adhesive was stuck well to the tile but it came clean off the ply. funny thing was the adhesive had a very thin layer with the wood grain of the ply stuck to it. i would say it was a chemical reaction with chemicals in the ply and chemicals in the adhesive. this delamination will happen every time moisture is introduced to the wood. i wont fix to ply myself at all and really, there are plenty of backerboards available there is no excuse. it cost them $4k to rip it all up and start again even then had to wait about 2 months of summer to dry out the ply. lay tile and slate underlay (similar to hardiebacker)and waterproofed all of it before laying.
 
G

Gazebo

OK lets do this installation plumber style.
overboard with 6mm ply and nail id down
PVA everything
Silicon the corners no need for expensive tanking kits
use standard adhesive on the floor and make it flexible by adding PVA
use tubed adhesive on the walls this will be ok as the tiles are only 700 by 300
it is not important what grout you use as the whole thing will leak anyway
plumbers I've **** em :thumbsup:


Oh no not the old tiler v plumber cobblers....
 
T

The D

Oh no not the old tiler v plumber cobblers....
m8 it is not even funny i have had all of the above and today the plumber on site was telling me about the job he was doing 20m floor he is using 3mm ply then he is going to PVA the ply then he is going to put SLC on top of the ply so he dose not need to use flexible adhesive. I just sat there gob smacked.
 
R

Rich

Has to be said that tilers do tend to stick to their trade, there seems to be very few plumbers that dont "tile" (I use that term incredibly loosely).
I still cant understand why they think that it is so easy? Can somebody help me out with that one? Why do plumbers do it?

The job I have just finished, I was laying a decoupling membrane. The plumber says "whats that then?" I told him and he replied with "nah, I just put ply down"

This is after the best line in the world "I do a bit of tiling" :mad2:
 
D

Daz

As factual as the posts above are, I think we have drifted away from the OP's questions :lol::lol:.

I don't think your mate is much of a tiler and I would find a reason not to use him if I was you.

The floor needs to be deflection (bounce) free, walls need to be flat and rigid, and properly tanked (I don't know anything about the Wickes fleece) before tiling commences. Porous substrates should be primed with an acrylic primer and use a flexible cement based adhesive.

Search the forum for advice and you will be fine.
Good luck,

Daz
 

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