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SlippySlipster
No all his own handy work. It's absolutely shocking and he thinks that's ok to do.
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Sean SML Tiling
Might get away with the corner if he used a 20mm bead of Silicon
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SlippySlipster
That was my plan on both sides I was going to use a thick bead of Silicon as they both only go up to the underneath of my top cabinets. i have sorted the side that was completely out and now the bond wraps correctly and it looks a lot lot better than before bar the large gap. Need to take it to the floor next.
The only bit I may need a bit of advice on is how to do the windows and if I need to put a ledge in or not or if I can just tile into it.
The only bit I may need a bit of advice on is how to do the windows and if I need to put a ledge in or not or if I can just tile into it.
Personally with metro tiles I don't like the sill tiled. I took some tiles out a couple of weeks ago at a customers that had been tiled with metros. Granted it had been tiled badly around window but it looked better with a bull-nosed window board in.
Sorry for neck creaking photo
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SlippySlipster
That looks great, where would the best place to get those from?
The window board was from a local timber merchants 220mm depth 600mm wide, pre-primed MDF and I gave it a couple of coats of acrylic eggshell after fitting it prior to tiling.
Normally comes in 5.4m lengths for about £20 but I know the guys down the timber yard and they just had an off-cut of 3ft so it didn't cost me anything
Normally comes in 5.4m lengths for about £20 but I know the guys down the timber yard and they just had an off-cut of 3ft so it didn't cost me anything
Poor job all round , i wouldnt pay him a penny! poor striking out , and dot n dab is a no no !! No matter what size of job you do , if its worth doing , then its worth doing right !! but you shouldn't asume he's alright because he's an older chap, wrinkles on your skin don't make you anymore competent !
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SlippySlipster
Hi All,
I'm making great progress with the tiling of my kitchen and am so much happier with the way it looks 🙂
A couple of questions though.
I have put in window board and am now wondering how to tile the top of the window reveal how do i follow the bond round etc if someone has a picture of what it should look like it would be much appreciated.
Last question is i purchased a manual tile cutter it was the best sub £70 one i could find that was in stock.
I have been using it fine and it was cutting great but it has now started to leave small aluminium looking marks on the tiles where the breaking bar presses.
And the scoring wheel isn't making the same sound, it's as though it's not scoring the tiles correctly anymore and the cuts look a lot less clean than they did previously any suggestions or is it just take it back and get something like a RUBI pocket 40 or does anyone have any other recommendations.
I already have a wet saw but the manual cutter is a lot faster to use?
Thanks in advance.
Jon
I'm making great progress with the tiling of my kitchen and am so much happier with the way it looks 🙂
A couple of questions though.
I have put in window board and am now wondering how to tile the top of the window reveal how do i follow the bond round etc if someone has a picture of what it should look like it would be much appreciated.
Last question is i purchased a manual tile cutter it was the best sub £70 one i could find that was in stock.
I have been using it fine and it was cutting great but it has now started to leave small aluminium looking marks on the tiles where the breaking bar presses.
And the scoring wheel isn't making the same sound, it's as though it's not scoring the tiles correctly anymore and the cuts look a lot less clean than they did previously any suggestions or is it just take it back and get something like a RUBI pocket 40 or does anyone have any other recommendations.
I already have a wet saw but the manual cutter is a lot faster to use?
Thanks in advance.
Jon
Jon,
You shouldn't need to press on the tile cutter too much, it sounds like you've made the scoring wheel blunt. So if it's not scoring properly, you're now needing to push on the snapping bar a littler harder, so that's now leaving marks.
A quick fix for the snapping mechanism is perhaps to put a bit of tape over the ends or something. Or tape some little bits of rubber of some sort to it (doesn't need to look too neat as long as it does the job).
Wheel-wise, you probably need a new wheel. And try not to press too much on it when you're scoring. And don't go over the same score again, once it's scored you should find it'll snap. No need to keep going over it or aggressively run the wheel up and down the tile a load of times.
You shouldn't need to press on the tile cutter too much, it sounds like you've made the scoring wheel blunt. So if it's not scoring properly, you're now needing to push on the snapping bar a littler harder, so that's now leaving marks.
A quick fix for the snapping mechanism is perhaps to put a bit of tape over the ends or something. Or tape some little bits of rubber of some sort to it (doesn't need to look too neat as long as it does the job).
Wheel-wise, you probably need a new wheel. And try not to press too much on it when you're scoring. And don't go over the same score again, once it's scored you should find it'll snap. No need to keep going over it or aggressively run the wheel up and down the tile a load of times.
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SlippySlipster
Good shout on the tape thanks.
I didn't think i was pressing that hard, and i only ever scored it once may have been when i added a little bit of extra pressure when i got to the beveled edge at the end to make sure it scored correctly.
Can you replace the wheel on all tile cutters?
Thanks for the advice.
I didn't think i was pressing that hard, and i only ever scored it once may have been when i added a little bit of extra pressure when i got to the beveled edge at the end to make sure it scored correctly.
Can you replace the wheel on all tile cutters?
Thanks for the advice.
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