Hi there - new kitchen on the way

[heathmount]

Hi there. I've been reading this forum for the last few weeks and found some excellent advice so thought I'd finally introduce myself.

I did an Able Skills training course last month which I thought was really good and it's given me the confidence to tackle my own project (although I'm sure I'll run into problems along the way). I've got approx 30 sq metres of kitchen/breakfast room and hallway floor to tile. It will have been gutted, replastered, and the existing floor tiles removed and then re-screeded so I've got a pretty blank canvas - no units, skirting or architrave to worry about. I read the pros/cons of tiling before or after fitting a kitchen and decided that although it's more initial outlay for the tiles, I save in terms of potentially tricky cuts around the base units.

I've chosen the 30 x 30 Cora Terracotta tiles from Topps Tiles with the wavy edges. Again from reading this forum it seems that using your eyes rather than spacers is the best way to lay these. Would you still advocate this for a novice tiler?

Adhesive/grout wise I'm going for BAL professional adhesive and wide joint grout. We didn't touch much on primers on the course except to say that I need to prime. I guess the standard BAL primer will do me?

The main bit I'm uncertain of at the moment is the door thresholds. Are they fixed to the floor with normal adhesive? Also 1 edge of the tiles will come to the bottom of some already carpeted stairs. How do you make that tidy?

That's it for now. Thanks in advance for all the other questions I'll be asking over the next couple of weeks!

cheers

 

[Dan]

Welcome to tilersforums.com | Tile Forums | Tiling Forum!

Hi heathmount and welcome to tilersforums.com!

 

[Rich]

:welcome:
Hello.
You will need to wait for the new screed to dry TOTALLY before starting and you will need to prime this before you start to tile. The BAL primer will be best if you are using BAL adhesives. Spacers are pretty useless with these tiles, but you must still make sure that they are laid square and straight. Use a long straight edge, lay in on the floor and pull the tiles up against it to make sure that the courses run straight. There is a huge range of different finishes you can use in the door way, what kind of height difference are we talking? Any pics would be a great help.

 

[kilty55]

:welcome:

 

[DHTiling]

Hello and welcome..

 

[faithhealer]

welcome to the forum

 

[White Room]

Hi and welcome

 

[mikethetile]

:welcome:

 

[united]

:welcome: to the forum

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Hello mate, and:welcome:as Dylante. With the stair carpet, I would loosen the riser.Tile to the stair, and then cut the carpet riser to the tile. Hope this makes sense

 

[richard Kent]

:welcome:Hi Heathmount I can't help with the tiling advice, but there's plenty on here that can offer professional advise, but if you get stuck when fitting your kitchen then I'm your man

 

[Ken Bruty]

:welcome: With irregular tiles, sometimes I mark out a grid on the floor, say at three courses of tiles intervals in both directions allowing for grout gaps, then when you tile keep the outside tiles within the boxes and adjust the tiles inside the outside tiles by eye, you shouldn't go wrong with that, with the extra time taken to mark out will save you time later on and in the knowledge that you can't go wrong if you don't lose your lines. :smilewinkgrin: