How do you get your Grout lines to meet?

[sWe]

Thanks sibs,sWe

It makes good sense.
As a nervous novice I always tend to go as mid-tile as possible on the bottom row so any deviation doesn't catch me out, and making sure there's no small cuts anywhere else.

Have you read my "guide" to centering tiles? I'll post it here in case you'll find it usefull.

Stop reading if you haven't got a few minutes to spare.
I figure most of the people on these forums know the things I'm about to write, but I'm going ahead anyways, as there's sure to be people who don't.

There are a few things you need to consider when centering tiles on a surface.

First you need to measure it. Remove say 4mm from that number for 2mm margins on both sides of the surface, as tiles could come loose or crack from building movement otherwise. Then divide that number with the width of one tile plus the width of the grout. That give you the number of tiles you'll be able to slap onto that surface. Here's what to do next:

1. If the number of tiles is a whole number, say 11, just go ahead and use whole tiles all the way, unless the costumer wants something else. If the decimal numbers are very low, or very high, say 11.1 or 10.9, then you might be able to compensate by altering the width of the grouting, depending on the size of the surface, the size of the tiles, and the customers wishes. Pretty much self explanatory.

2.If the number of the last whole tile you can fit onto the surface is UNEVEN, for example 5.4, then you can go ahead and just mark out the centre on that surface, unless 1. is applicable. This is because the border tiles will always be half of a tile (which can only happen if the number of possible tiles is a whole number) or LARGER. The centre of the surface is found by dividing the width by 2.

3.If the number of the last whole tile you can fit onto the surface is EVEN, for example 4.7, then you need to approach it sligthly differently. I will get to how in a sec, but as to the why, it's because the border tiles will always be half of a tile (for the same reasons stated ), or SMALLER, if you work from the center of the wall.

Instead, you need to offset the centre of the wall, and work from the center of the middlemost tile. You can just adjust it so that it sits centralized on the centerline, but if you want use that line as a guide, you can do like this:


Divide the width of the surface by two, and then substract (or add) the width of half a tile. Mark the result on the surface, and work from there. You just made an offset central marking. It's offset by half a tile, and thus, the border tiles will be half a tile or larger.

If you want to check that your markings are correct, and that the border pieces really are as big as they can get, here's one way:


Add 1 to the decimals from the result of the calculation where you figured out the number of possible tiles.

For example, if the result was 6.7 tiles, then do 1+0.7. That gives 1.7. Multiply 1.7 with the width of one tile, and then divide that number by 2. The result is the largest possible width of two equal sized border tiles. Mark them out on the surface if you want additional guide lines.


I probably don't need to say it, but all of the above works vertically as well as horizontally.

I hope someone finds this usefull. Proper measuring and planning makes work sooo much easier.

 

[joe kelly]

I butter the backs of around 20 tiles then throw them against the wall wiv my eyes shut! This keeps everything messed up just the way i like it!

Well thats what i may a s well bloody do!!!!

:lol: :lol: never thoght of that one:lol:

 

[brian c]

you have a good technique there wivers......lol

 

[garretridge]

hi m8 new member from northern ireland see u support rangers nice 1 i am going over 2 the game flying out 2day! r u going?:8:

Ian-garretridge

 

[Alberta Stone]

I like the batten method, but have lately been drawing my reference line around the perimeter for the first course, cutting those, mortar in place and then I have a nice level foundation to work up from.

 

[Branty]

I used to use a nice grout line dating site to get mine to meet. Sorry couldn't resist.
:lol:

 

[Paul]

Hi there,
I use more than one line, pretty sure some of you do to. First I have a datum line which is marked on each wall at the same height. I then take my gauge rod and stand it up against the wall and mark the height of the datum line on it.
From here I can easily gauge setting out lines based on the rows of tiles in relation to the datum mark on the rod, does that make sense? So no matter where I start the grout lines will always meet as long as the datum line was correct in the first place.

Ssorry guys think I'm being a bit stupid here i got the datum line running round the room using he level to mark out the area you can tile up and down from so that's ok horizontally don't understand the why you mark the gauge with that same datum line ? So tiles all the way round the room will be spot on in height what about vertically ? Where do you start here - sorry

 

[bugs183]

After tiling for over 15 years using a level i found the best method for aligning tiles is a laser level.
Just buy, beg or hire one and make it uses a staff that it can slide up and down on, tripods are useless.
With a laser you can check everything in seconds, it's an invaluable piece of kit.
If you do draw a datum around the toom with a level, make sure you turn it round each time you mark along its length.

 

[nybor62]

laser level for me as well so much quicker, no excuse for not meeting up

 

[poynton phil]

As above, a laser line for me, makes setting out a lot quicker. But will definitly try wivers method....

 

[Perry]

Self taught me very seldom do I put or draw a line around a room only to check something except when I am doing brick slips and that's the only time I have ever used a staff to

 

[Paul]

Those City fans are everywhere Poynton Phil

 

[poynton phil]

Those City fans are everywhere Poynton Phil

We are Paul, C'mon yooooo Blues, bit of a iffy start to the season though, not a big fan of Pearson. Where about's in Leicester are you, I originate from Croft, near Narbourough

 

[bugs183]

If your not using a laser it really is worth drawing a datum line all around the room You always know your tiling is level then.
It was always the first thing we did when setting a room out, you can draw it anywhere, once thats up you can gauge up or down from it.
My mate was taught to tile on a tiling course and they never told him this (i'm not knocking courses here, just saying they didn't teach this ESSENTIAL bit of knowledge), so i'd put my laser on the room and it was always out.

 

[Paul]

We are Paul, C'mon yooooo Blues, bit of a iffy start to the season though, not a big fan of Pearson. Where about's in Leicester are you, I originate from Croft, near Narbourough

Yeah not the best start Phil think we,ll be ok if the Thais stick with him funnily enough I'm on the Pastures , Narborough