How to create a removable ceramic floor tile?

[faithhealer]

Yes, re-routing could be done, but not without a lot of concrete floors being dug up, radiators being moved, decorating and ensuing general mayhem – believe me, a removable tile would probably save me about a week’s work and a lot of ear ache! :smilewinkgrin: What do you think to the tile sandwich or sand/cement reinforcing?
Many thanks
Midge

Think I would put the tile in properly and forget about it. A new tiled floor is the worst senario, easier than the 'above' mayhem

 

[Midge6]

Think I would put the tile in properly and forget about it. A new tiled floor is the worst senario, easier than the 'above' mayhem

I don’t want to bore the pants off everyone here, :smilewinkgrin: I have just said as much as I though necessary to see if there is a practical solution to my problem. To explain further, the tiled floor in question stretches from the porch by the front door through a very large hall area and includes the dining room. All the skirting and door architraves are fitted on top of the floor as is a fancy internal porch/hall glass door frame. To make matters more complicated, the open plan staircase sits on the tiled floor too. In the light of all this, you will doubtless understand, re-tiling the floor is not a project I have any desire in contemplating anytime soon. If it took me a couple of days to make up some kind of removable tile system, it would be time well spent IF I ever needed to use it.
To sum up, there are varying degrees of mayhem – re-tiling about 80 sq yards of flooring would be in a category of its own. :yikes:
Many thanks
Midge.

PS Please keep the ideas coming - it is appreciated.

 

[DHTiling]

Hi midge...

Stick the tile to 6mm hardi backer....obviously you will need to lower that section of floor to accomadate the thickness...then bed the tile on a weak sand/cement mix...making sure it is packed in tight so it does not sink...then Silicon the joint to prevent side to side movement..

Then it will lift out if needed but still have strength to support it but bieng a weak mix it will simply rake out easier.

 

[Midge6]

Hi midge...

Stick the tile to 6mm hardi backer....obviously you will need to lower that section of floor to accomadate the thickness...then bed the tile on a weak sand/cement mix...making sure it is packed in tight so it does not sink...then Silicon the joint to prevent side to side movement..

Then it will lift out if needed but still have strength to support it but bieng a weak mix it will simply rake out easier.

Thanks Dave, that sounds interesting.
I’ve just had a look at the Hardibacker Web site so I think I follow what you’re saying, but to be clear, if I wanted to get the tile up in the future, how would I go about it? Also, what would you consider to be a weak sand/cement mix – I’m thinking 7 or 8 to 1? Not wishing to sound cheeky but , :blush2: have you seen this done yourself?:lol:

Many thanks
Midge.

 

[DHTiling]

That is the best option i can think of to make the bed easier to remove...

NO hasn't been done by me before....but it's an option....Or one of the above....which ever way you do it needs to able to with stand foot traffic..

Personally i would just fill the hole and tile as normal...keep your fingers crossed....if the pipes do fail then thats what insurances are for...

 

[Midge6]

That is the best option i can think of to make the bed easier to remove...

NO hasn't been done by me before....but it's an option....Or one of the above....which ever way you do it needs to able to with stand foot traffic..

Personally i would just fill the hole and tile as normal...keep your fingers crossed....if the pipes do fail then thats what insurances are for...

Thanks Dave (And everyone else!) for all your suggestions – I’ll be mulling this over for a while longer, in the mean time; I’m still open to any other ideas.
Anyone...? :smilewinkgrin:
Many thanks
Midge.

 

[smurf21]

i would chop out enough of the floor to take 18mm ply and a tile,fix the tile to the board and either drill and screw to floor depending where it lies or loose lay and Silicon the joint with coloured sealant fill the void first with sand. ( this is not a tried and tested method just an idea):8:

 

[devonmark]

i would just fill and tile, after all...all pipe work can potentially give us problems in the future, if we where to think along them lines all pipe work would be exposed..

 

[silver]

Hi Midge
Maybe...but its a lot of messing and you will have minimum two small holes in your tile to fill with silicon the same colour as your grout along with silicon around it...if you dont mind that ?
Stick your tile to a same size piece of hardibacker (12mm)
In your pipe work hole if you have solid areas away from the piped...(pic looks like you do) ....drill and plug/screw a square piece of 18mm ply at a depth difference of exactly what your tile stuck to the 12mm hardibacker board is....so when tile / hardibacker is in place its all level...you may need to pack this up ? THERE MUST BE NO MOVEMENT
Then drill a 5 > 6mm in two places on your tile or even four if you are happy with that.....just drill the tile not the backer board....you could use another piece of 18mm ply instead of hardibacker if you wish if that helps take up the hole depth.
Place the tile you have stuck on your board onto its "base" in the hole and screw fix through your holes with thin screws ...using the right colour silicon as per your grout.....seal in your tile...........on the screw heads stick a small adhesive cover. This is to stop the silicon sticking to the screw head. Use a stationery hole punch on a sticky label..that would be ideal....I told you it would be fiddly !! then if you need to lift..your screwdriver will easily push through the sticker .....then silicon fill the holes......... when needed for access dig out the holes break the surround and unscrew from base then unscrew base.

....if you cant quite make the exact depth when you insert you tile on the board ie its slightly shallow...you could pack it with rigid rubber matting (1>2mm) or even layers of thin not corrugated cardboard.....should it move ever so slightly with foot traffic the silicon will absorb it.....or be fussy like me and get it just right !!!

I aint done this so far myself but if I needed to in my own house or a customers ...this would be what I would do....the small holes and the surround filled with silicon I could live with knowing I could get at the pipes.

hope this helps ?