Simplified Dot And Dab Description.....cut Gyproc To Size By Saw Or Saw Pad ,dot Some Drywall Adhesive At 6 Inch Intervals In A Grid Effect On The Grey Side Which Is The Back Of The Gyproc.,now Place It On Wall And Use A Piece Of Wood Or Feathered Edge To Push The Gyproc To The Wall,take Care And Check With Spirit Level For Flatness,then Do The Same With The Next Piece And Use Bead Again To Get A Straight Wall.......easy As That M8.
Simplified Dot And Dab Description.....cut Gyproc To Size By Saw Or Saw Pad ,dot Some Drywall Adhesive At 6 Inch Intervals In A Grid Effect On The Grey Side Which Is The Back Of The Gyproc.,now Place It On Wall And Use A Piece Of Wood Or Feathered Edge To Push The Gyproc To The Wall,take Care And Check With Spirit Level For Flatness,then Do The Same With The Next Piece And Use Bead Again To Get A Straight Wall.......easy As That M8.
being a plasterer i would not say its as easy as that, if the wall is out you got to pack it out, if the boards are warped it creates problems also wat are you dryling onto all to be considered however brian has described it well, apart from the pitfalls.
for a straight edge for drylining i use a uprigt section of a aluminium door totally true.
tys, before you dab stick a straight edge over the wall, find and mark the low spots. that way you can stick extra adhesive in them to take up the slack. when you tap the board back dont hold the straight edge vertically( you could push too much either end) . hold it diagonally across the board and tap. this will straighten up the board better. hope this make sense and helps. dave