How would you do it ?

how about putting a level line all the way round the room then measure from floor up to the line if there is a difference then thats how much the floor will be running out
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not bad for a 5 day tiler though eh :shades_smile:the quicker way would it involve a staff by any chance
 
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If the customer isn't havin the walls tiled she/he mightn't thank you for drawing on them...
For a good 'visual' display you can get the nearest level high point on the floor nearest to the radiator and put a tile or 2 (depending on depth)on the floor, stack a few tiles at the low point near the rad and then using a straight edge and level from 1 tile stack to the other would give a vivid and clear picture of the drop.

Failing that.... throw a laser level along the base of the wall..🙂
 
If the customer isn't havin the walls tiled she/he mightn't thank you for drawing on them...
For a good 'visual' display you can get the nearest level high point on the floor nearest to the radiator and put a tile or 2 (depending on depth)on the floor, stack a few tiles at the low point near the rad and then using a straight edge and level from 1 tile stack to the other would give a vivid and clear picture of the drop.

Failing that.... throw a laser level along the base of the wall..🙂

That is the way I did it - she didn't want pencil marks all over her expensive wall paper - so laser level & staff.

Dan - it's obvious that by the time that the lowest point was levelled to meet highest, then heating mat, tiles ( 22 mm ) plus adhesive, they would have to take about 400mm off the door & alter the bottom frame & storm guard - The radiator & bleed valve at bottom end would be partially covered & all skirting boards would have to come off or disappear if left on. Also the stone fireplace hearth would disappear.
 
leatherface you dont need to level the floor m8!! you can tile to the run of room , it simply isnt practical to level every floor square with walls and as for ufh if u want to cover before tiling skin over with adhesive !!
 
Get a spirit level (y), centre the bubble at the estimated highest point of the room, measure with a rule the distance between the level and floor (x).

Then measure the length of the level. If your using a 1m level, then the floor runs out 1y=x.

In other words, if the floor ran for 3m and for every 1m there was a fall of 2mm, then the total fall would be 6mm. (3y=3x)

This is assuming that the floor ran off constantly with no dips in the middle.

Easier done than said 😉
 
Kapitan
Could do - but can't be arsed. If it won't self level over heating then really can't be bothered. Have done this before - it's an absolute pain trying to spread adhesive over the mat ( Properly ) so as not to leave any air pockets and also leave a good surface to tile onto. Also too much risk damaging the cable.

Concept ???
Sounds a strange way - not knocking it though, if it works for you then fine.
Find my way easier.
Regards N
🙂
 
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you can tile directly over ufh! i use a heavy thickbed trowel and if the substrate is cement use a pourable sp adhesive, works a treat!!
 
Yes I know - have done that. Prefer not to, always like to self level. Had one job when I accidentaly nicked the mat with my trowel, cost me dear :icon8: . Always play safe since.
 
The laser way is easiest, but a quick way to show the customer on the quote is the way I just said. Not as accurate as i previously mentioned.

🙂
 

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