Injection resin and studs

[Paulw]

Hi

I've done a lot of searching around but I can't quite find the information I'm after on the internet. I'm after some advice on injection resins and fixing studs. I'll shortly be fitting a heavy half pedestal porcelain hand basin in my bathroom. I've had to create a 'false wall' to allow for the basin and other pipe work to tucked out of the way.

My outline plan is to use M10 or M12 threaded rod, resin bonded into the wall (the gap between the tile surface and the wall will be app. 80mm). The rod will be 'resting' on the top of a section of the studding used to support the aquaboard and tiles. The wall behind the existing plasterwork is what I would describe as 'rough' sandstone block work (it's a very old house).So far so good........

Now, I've never used injection resin and rod before and have a couple of questions that I hope you can give me some pointers on. Assuming that I manage to avoid hitting any gaps or running off on an edge etc. I was wondering.......

1). What type/make of injection resin to use in potentially damp porous sandstone?
2). How deep would one normally drill to set the rod into the wall? In practice there will be in the order of 130/140mm of rod protruding from the wall. My intuition says that I would need at least this depth of hole in the wall?
3). What's the normal tolerance of hole size to rod and resin i.e. how much bigger than the rod does the hole have to be to make the most effective bond between rod, resin and hole?

Many thanks

Paul

 

[Frosty]

Hi Paulw. Welcome to the forum.

In answer to your questions:-
1. Check on the side of resin tube what situations it's meant for. Most resins do most substrates, but just make sure.
2. I always drill the hole as deep as possible before breaking out the other side. This allows the maximum surface area to bond to.
3. I normally drill one or two sizes bigger than the rod i.e. 10mm rod = 12 or 14mm hole. You don't want it too big or the rod may set on an unwanted angle.

Always use a "puffer" to blow the dust out before injecting resin. A bicycle pump could be used as a one off (make sure your eyes are shut when doing this).

Let us know how you get on

 

[salmonfisher]

if you've got a false wall you should have strengthened the stud with 4x2 then used the proper fixings Fischer WD 8x100 Wall Mounted Basin Fixing Kit - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

 

[Stan001]

why are you doing it that way? you state its heavy and half pedestal. have you looked at intalling a mounting frame (its literally a metal frame that goes down to the floor, normally hidden in stud walls, made for the job) inside your false wall? The basin then bolts thro to this metal frame! Grahams / Jewsons can advise as can any good bathroom fitting company. Is the existing plasterwork , plaster on block or plasterboard? if its board its quick and cheap to replace and hide the frame there thus losing your additional false wall (sorry cant visualise your layout).

 

[Ajax123]

Blimey - sounds like one for a structural engineer to me. I do know that you can buy injection resins which are strong enough to hang a full metal staircase with stone inserts in the treads but I have no idea what the engineering is behind it. Would not have done it that way myself but no good bolting the door after the horse has bolted etc etc....perhaps the bathroom suppliers might be able to help.

 

[Saltire69]

The resin is just for going into brickwork m8. If u got a false wall,use 2x2 to take the wait of sink.

 

[Stan001]

you can see a number of frame kits here ...

Concealed Toilet Cisterns and Hidden Bathroom Frame Kits - Livinghouse UK

 

[Paulw]

Hi

Many thanks for the input folks. It's always difficult to fully explain a job on a forum, succinctness and accuracy when trying to be brief is difficult…..I think I may have inadvertently made this sound like a bigger job than it actually is. Suffice to say that in reality this is not a big job or deal for me, I’ve just never fitted a piece of bathroom kit that required hanging directly from a wall before.
Given the as yet unknown general integrity of the wall I’m fitting everything to, the suggestion of using a hidden frame kit may well be the way forward for peace of mind........this method hadn't occurred to me at all....cheers for that one
Many thanks once again to all.
Paul