Suspended Timber Floor Tile Prep

[acaciaguy]

I think and I’m hoping they mean pipes for rads etc. Rather than actual ufc

 

[Deyna]

Wait a minute. Where do you have Wet UFH?

Dont worry, adjacent room! Its just the pipes run under this room and over the sleeper wall near the opening.

 

[acaciaguy]

Ok.

 

[Deyna]

All it means is that it limits where I can put joists on that section of the sleeper as the pipes are in the way, but at 12" OC its fine.

 

[Waluigi]

It does have an impact if you are overboarding the ply and need to build up the height of joining floors. For example, a Foam tile backer board would be unsuitable and instead a cement board like Hardiebacker would be OK on top of wet UFH

 

[acaciaguy]

Are you tiling the wet ufc area too as part of the same tiling

 

[Deyna]

It does have an impact if you are overboarding the ply and need to build up the height of joining floors. For example, a Foam tile backer board would be unsuitable and instead a cement board like Hardiebacker would be OK on top of wet UFH

Ofc, its a problem for the other room. Thats not being tiled until the extension is built. Either way the ply will need another layer of something so I'll end up with a height difference. Can't lower this floor without rebuilding the sleepers.

 

[Andy Rhodes]

Dense concrete blocks would work, you could place them under every second beam from the middle beam on the picture but you would have to put a piece of slate under the block or DPM to stop damp, may also cheaper & quicker

 

[Deyna]

Eventually yes. I mentioned it in the OP these rooms will be joined so there will be a substrate difference and will need to be factored in. Thankfully the tiles will run with the join so at most its one tile that will straddle the two floors although I suppose you could just end of a full tile at the edges.

 

[acaciaguy]

Ofc, its a problem for the other room. Thats not being tiled until the extension is built. Either way the ply will need another layer of something so I'll end up with a height difference. Can't lower this floor without rebuilding the sleepers.

Or take ply up and put a thicker cement / structural board down. Double up joists and maybe even block and you should be sound as a pound

 

[Andy Rhodes]

You can fix mechanical expansion joint to bridge where the 2 floors meet,& by cutting up to the joint continue it with the off cut & it still gives the impression that the floor runs through

 

[Deyna]

Thanks guys, this stuff is good.

I've got spare timber, so I will go ahead and double up the spans showing deflection and re-test. I think this will solve any lingering deflection problems and shouldnt take a great deal of my time.

I'll look into Blanke Permat for this subfloor. The extra expense might be worth it (12m2), but Ditra would be more suitable for the adjacent room with screen/WUFH and more cost effective. Both add the same height so would work.

 

[acaciaguy]

I live in Warwick if you would like to pm me. I can come have a look.

 

[Deyna]

I live in Warwick if you would like to pm me. I can come have a look.

Cheers buddy, I'll be working on it this weekend so will report back after bolting some more 4x2's together. A second opinion would be much welcomed.

I should have gone gone 6x2 really and just cut back at the ends. Wouldn't have got anything bigger than that in though.

 

[Deyna]

I've given it a bit more testing, and I've come to the conclusion that bolting more timber together will not reduce vertical movement to an acceptable level to be considered for tiling. However given the sleepers are 2 courses, I'm going to basically add another 2 walls mid span either side so the max clear span is 1m. I've got aload of spare blue engineering bricks here from the previous owners. A quick test of deflection over that span with some offcuts shows it will not move.