Suspended Timber Floor Tile Prep Page: 2

[Waluigi]

It would help. If you want to go the timber route then get some bolt down fence posts supports and some 75mm sq. posts. Then drill and bolt.

Keep in mind that if you put timber anywhere near the floor, a bit of DPM would need to go in.

 

[acaciaguy]

Steel would be better. Wood would be easier. Or blocks / bricks

 

[Deyna]

You could also take up ply and block up from subfloor to support joints in the areas of deflection.

Do you mean adding more sleepers mid span of the current span?

ye thats what I thought...Obviously alot more instrusive as everything has to come back up then to put down more brickwork.

 

[acaciaguy]

You could add sleepers supported by blocks or you could block at various points across the span. Alternatively use timber rather than blocks or use steel. If starting from scratch (which I appreciate you don’t want to or need to do) use a 2 x 6 or even 2 x 8 joist

 

[Deyna]

Is 4 x 2 suitable? I would think it’s a bit skinny 6 x 2 I would think min. The 2 x 4 needs support underneath

Define suitability. See my comments re. Span tables etc.

Althought in hindsight 6x2 would have been better even with notching around sleeper (only 2 courses so you couldnt exactly remove a course but it would have allowed you to have more support through the span).

Bolting another 4x2 to it should be roughly equivalent to 6x2 I would guess? Well, somewhere in between, more like a 5x2.

 

[acaciaguy]

Suitability. Does it work without any issues

 

[Old Mod]

3_Fall,

That Blanke Permat looks an interesting product, but seems hella expensive next to Ditra?

That’s because they’re completely different products.
And have different functions.

 

[acaciaguy]

Now you have what you have in terms of the floor timbers we need to ensure that what ever is done now works for you and is the best and most efficient remedy so that you can get the tiles down and be confident that the floor is sound and tiles will be there for a long time happily It’s best to get this spot on now.

 

[Deyna]

acaciaguy I agree!

I've got the original timbers I removed here still, which are the same size and in decent condition (I think they are about 18 years old)

There isn't much space in the void (between 8" and 10") and certainly no easy access without taking the entire floor up so maybe putting down more sleepers is out of the question for now.

Other solutions for supporting mid span without brickwork but some limited access. This is an old house so I'd rather not hang anything new off the existing internal walls so it'll need to be freestanding...

I could use the old 4x2s as sisters, or I could grab a few 6x2s and notch around the sleeper. The "4x4s" in the middle are solid for the span so I doubt these need tinkering with. As I said, M12 bots at 500 centers with 50mm Sabrefix timber connectors.

 

[Waluigi]

You wouldn’t tend to add sleepers afterwards. Considering a sleeper wall is constructed, then S&C, then DPC then more S&C and then a section of 4” x 2” on its side which is then screwed/nailed into from the joists above- I can’t see how adding a sleeper wall would work easily after the joists are down.