Is my bathroom tiling acceptable? Some advice needed please. Page: 2

[Hezzie]

Good morning folks, I wonder if you can offer me some advice please.

I've employed a bathroom fitter to fit me a new bathroom, he's Hardbackered the floor and around the bath/shower area but has tiled directly onto paint, no roughing up or scoring. Searching on Google and on here the general consensus of opinion is that is not good practice, they are big, heavy tiles. Also he's dot and dabbed the tiles on the wall, there's a 5mm or more gap behind them.

Also I can home to this last night, the tile is sticking out 5mm in front of the door frame, I accept the house is a 1920's house and browning/plaster and the walls aren't level but surely this isn't acceptable, I've never seen it anywhere before.

He's got a couple more days of work here yet.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[Bill]

What I am saying is that dot and dabbing will not necessarily result in failure - it all depends on other factors.

You say you have tanked but that doesn't look apparent in the photos.

The PVA is a no no with cement based adhesives.

The paint should have been removed by either hacking it off or take the plaster/plasterboard off the walls back to brick /stud walls. Replastered or reboarded.

The tiler is not up to date with best practices for tiling even though his work looks neat.

His setting out is poor in the case of leaving such a small cut above the window but this may have been unavoidable due to tile size room size ratio. (if you need to change the layout of the wall tiling to avoid small cuts - this can sometimes require many more tiles due to waste)

The tile next to the architrave is not an issue as all that requires is the arc taking off and a fillet adding to the door casing and the arc replaced thus leaving the arc the correct depth off the tile - this is a common problem with all retro fit bathrooms.

Personally, you need to make sure he is aware of the limitations of his fixing methods and give him the chance to rectify it but also contact the plumbing centre and recommend to them the correct fixing procedures to as they may not know either.

Hope that helps.

 

[Hezzie]

What I am saying is that dot and dabbing will not necessarily result in failure - it all depends on other factors.

You say you have tanked but that doesn't look apparent in the photos.

The PVA is a no no with cement based adhesives.

The paint should have been removed by either hacking it off or take the plaster/plasterboard off the walls back to brick /stud walls. Replastered or reboarded.

The tiler is not up to date with best practices for tiling even though his work looks neat.

His setting out is poor in the case of leaving such a small cut above the window but this may have been unavoidable due to tile size room size ratio. (if you need to change the layout of the wall tiling to avoid small cuts - this can sometimes require many more tiles due to waste)

The tile next to the architrave is not an issue as all that requires is the arc taking off and a fillet adding to the door casing and the arc replaced thus leaving the arc the correct depth off the tile - this is a common problem with all retro fit bathrooms.

Personally, you need to make sure he is aware of the limitations of his fixing methods and give him the chance to rectify it but also contact the plumbing centre and recommend to them the correct fixing procedures to as they may not know either.

Hope that helps.

It was tanked Tom, the fitter removed it all with the old tiles, now it's just hardieboard.

 

[Dumbo]

Hardie isn't waterproof . It's water tolerant .
It's a good background but it isn't waterproof .

 

[Hezzie]

Hardie isn't waterproof . It's water tolerant .
It's a good background but it isn't waterproof .

I didn't know that, thanks.

 

[Dan]

Oh no. This isn't good.

Also no internal corner expansion gap. This isn't a tiler who's done this. He needs some training or something. Certainly needs to stop saying he can tile.

Dot and dab = no
Tiling to PVA = no
Tiling to Emulsion = no
No internal corner expansion gap = no

Those are big no's. They're not just for looks. The tiles can pop off the wall with any one of those, you've got a hat trick plus one.

Then the edging needed sorting but that's just cosmetic.

He needed more adhesive, and to use it properly. And then to score the walls. And use an Acrylic Primer and not PVA. PVA is good for children making things but other than that it shouldn't be used. It's used in some plastering techniques but I don't think much else.

 

[Italy]

Cazzo!!! 🙁
this is to be taken to prison.

 

[acaciaguy]

This is isn’t good. On another note he has quoted to supply and fit spot lights. All electric work in a bathroom must be undertaken by a Part P competent person. To not be so breaches building regs. It’s a serious safety point to think about. Unless he subbed out to a part p electrician ? Or did he do it

 

[Dan]

Well spotted @acaciaguy
If not part p he needs notify building control / council and get them to check it and sign it off, which costs more than an electrician usually.

If I am understanding threads on our sparky forum that is. Which I may not be to be fair.

 

[acaciaguy]

You are indeed correct. The work can be undertaken by anyone and then bco checked. However normally it is undertaken by a part p approved guy (good) or a bathroom fitter without part p / not Checked by bco (bad).

I should add. I fit a lot of kitchens and bathrooms and electric work is a common thing. Lights , sockets (kitchens) extractor fans etc all subbed out to my wonderful electrician (part p. / jib etc).

 

[Dan]

Yay I was right for once lol 😀