Kitchen floor

Had a look at kitchen floor today approx 22m2. chiboard floor thats had hatches etc cut into it and customer wants to simply put insulation boards down and tile.
My issue is that the floors chipboard, not 100% sound and has slight bounce so my recommendation was to ply floor to elimenate bounce and any sort of movement, then if he wants lay insulation boards staggered and screwed(never used backer or insulation boards before) followed by ufh, slc, laying tile, grout and if req sealing.

Is this correct and should a decoupler be used ontop of slc if tile is porcelain or natural stone?

also price im thinking around

7 bags addy=140
4/5 slc=100
grout=30
labour=660
= 930 not inc decoupler,tile boards

Any advice as always appreciated:thumbsup:
 
First job is to sort the floor, you must get rid of that bounce. Like Enduro said, if it's a floater, run for the hills!
 
Yeah defo the bounce must go, and first question will be is it floating although if it has hatches cut in it can it still be floating and is there anyway i can tell?would ply and screwing to death be suitable?
 
You really need to find out if its a floating floor. I've never tiled one but there's a few on here who have and a few who will never. The bounce doesn't sound good, it has to be solid as a rock!
 
If you can see nder it then thats a start. If there are joist etc then its a 'proper' floor
 
My understanding of a floating floor is one thats laid on concrete with a really thick layer of some sort of insulation with chipboard ontop but i think you can also get floating floors on joists but i think there more for insulating reasons like sound proofing in a music studio. If you have movement in the floor or bounce i really wouldn't tile it untill it was solid.
 
"Is it a floating floor?" - Are there screws in the chipboard???

You cannot screw chipboard to Kingspan insulation so no screws = no joists = FLOATER!

Simples!
 

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