large format tiles

[Eddie]

Im having problems getting 600/400 tiles to bed on a wall without having steps in the tiles. hard to set them level on all sides, wondered if my adhesive not wet/soft enough? Anyone else had this problem?

Cheers, Edd

 

[DHTiling]

Its more likely the wall isn't flat enough for that size of tile....check the wall with your level...there should no dips deeper than 3mm.......good luck..

 

[GazTech]

Im having problems getting 600/400 tiles to bed on a wall without having steps in the tiles. hard to set them level on all sides, wondered if my adhesive not wet/soft enough? Anyone else had this problem?

Cheers, Edd

Frankly no..you must take great care with large stuff...before you know it your'e away to hell ...always follow the bubble...check walls before starting so you know where to make allowances.....Gaz

 

[DHTiling]

Also eddie use a deeper notch trowel , this will help get over slightly uneven walls and get a good fix to the tiles...back butter if necessary....

 

[Perry]

Eddie i use a 13 mm noched trowel and butter the backs make sure the adhesive is cement based Pete

 

[penno]

Also mate if you are using a larger notched trowel and back buttering because the walls are not exacly even then make sure you add it in the price, adhesive doesn't come for free.

 

[Eddie]

Cheers gentlemen, a great help as always
Edd

 

[Ric]

run a level or straight edge up the wall and check for dips , either fill on the wall or the tile! :yawn:

 

[Leatherface]

Have had this problem numerous times before - are you going onto plaster or plasterboard ? Both can be problematic - just because it's plasterboard does not mean it will be easy - depends upon if it has been fixed to good joists or spot and dabbed level. Also plaster can be a nightmare - just don't beleive a plaserer when he says that the walls are too bad to get them plumb. Beleive me a good plasterer can acheive miracles with the worst of walls. Many plasterers do not even bother to check their plastering witha straight edge - I've heard too many times the phrase " oh it will do, the tiler will sort it out"
The first thing you need to realise is that you should know what you are up against at quote stage. Find out what type of tiles the customer is having. ALWAYS take a long spirit level with you & check the walls, up and down and left to right & across window reveals to assess how good or bad they are. If not suitable then advise customer of remedial action, eg re-plastering. If they will be a struggle but time consuming, then build into your quote the extra time and adhesive you will use. Advise the customer why !!!
The extra time and money needs to be at their cost - not at yours because you didn't check.
One extra thing to note - always ask if the large format tiles are to be set in line or brick bond. If in brick bond you have even less room for error - walls ( or floors need to be pretty damn level or you will not stand a chance ( or end up having to use twice as much adhesive and time to ensure you have no stepping.
Back buttering and the use of a floor trowel, 10 or 12 mm is often necessary.
"THINK ONCE AT QUOTE STAGE, RATHER THAN THINKING TWICE ONCE YOU HAVE STARTED"

Eddie, just another point to add - when quoting for large format tiles on walls, use the same formula as for floors to work out adhesive required - " one 20kg bag for 4 square metres" This way you will not loose out.

 

[White Room]

Check the lighting in the room, if any light shines across any walls, edges of the tiles slightly proud will stick out like sore thumb and haunt you forever

 

[Dan]

Check the lighting in the room, if any light shines across any walls, edges of the tiles slightly proud will stick out like sore thumb and haunt you forever

You're supposed to tile with the full lighting effect of the finished product. Not always possible (bespoke kitchens hardly ever possible as the lights aren't always in place).

Down-lighters are a bugger for shading your tiles if they're stepping or the odd one standing a bit too proud.

 

[Leatherface]

The answer is - don't tile in poor light !!

 

[GazTech]

light is no issue if you work to a level and straight edge....Gaz

 

[Leatherface]

light is no issue if you work to a level and straight edge....Gaz

Beg to differ !!!
Working in winter months, late afternoon and evening with no natural sunlight and just a spotlight is asking for trouble.
Straight edge etc is mandatory, but spotlights can cast the wrong kind of shadows. If you are doing a bathroom where downlighters are to be installed later, you will be suprised to see the different effect once they are switched on.

Next thing you will be saying is that you can tile in the dark - using a straight edge and a guide dog ????
Just remember there are many newbies on here !!! Takes years of practice to be able to trust your judgement and a straight edge. Many will come unstuck if they have poor light when tiling

 

[IvegotsTILE]

Recently done a bathroom with a spotlight,thought I'd done a great job but once the downlighters were fitted and put on after a few days I realised I'd missed a load of grout,no great problem just had to spend half an hour scrapping some off but does prove that you need proper lighting to tile.