Levelling with ufh

[joshtiler]

Thanks mate I think on this occasion it will have to be 6mm. But in future I will lay it this way. It has blown my mind a bit though as in the installation guide there is no mention of putting a board down?? Weird

 

[Ian]

They've probably got a deal with the electric companies, the reps get a cut!

 

[joshtiler]

Haha I recon you could be right mate!! Other than the obvious heat loss through the concrete screed will not putting a board down effect any aspect of the actual tiling? As I said I have do e a few and am now worried will the tile/ufh fail without the board?

 

[Dougs Third Go]

it won't fail without the board,,,just be damned expensive to run!

 

[AliGage]

Here you go Josh, an awesome tilers forum member did this thread a while back http://www.tilersforums.com/electri...ng-electric-underfloor-heating-step-step.html

Sorry Bri mate. I didn't have time to go look for it. I was debating between the two of you.

Thanks mate I think on this occasion it will have to be 6mm.

The manufacturers installation instruction will more than likely specify the use of an insulation board. The likes of Warm up even tell you the minimum thickness (10mm with them). I don't know where you would stand on warrantys in the event any do fail.

 

[Ian]

Haha I recon you could be right mate!! Other than the obvious heat loss through the concrete screed will not putting a board down effect any aspect of the actual tiling? As I said I have do e a few and am now worried will the tile/ufh fail without the board?

It won't fail, it just won't be very efficient.

 

[joshtiler]

Thanks mate put my mind at rest I will always put board down from now on

 

[Ian]

Sorry Doug, you're post wasn't there when I started writing! Got sidetracked by a packet of foxes crunch creams!

 

[Protilers]

6mm board is fine........(and has insulation properties v. similar of 10mm!) but level the floor first.....then lay insulation......then level again and tile.......this way you get the most heat transfer.......all the best

 

[joshtiler]

Thanks all of you for advice

Aligage this is the installation guide mate it's a brand called rachem (from CTD) there are alot of pages but the instructions that come with the mat I get are from page 21 and it says subfloor, then mat, then tile adhesive, then tile it doesnt even mention slc either? Not saying you any of you are wrong as I see how it would be costly to run but just wanted you to see what I have got to follow lol!!

Here it is:
http://ru-ru.thermal.pentair.com/Images/EN-RaychemFloorheating-TH-CDE0695_tcm506-35938.pdf

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

6mm board is fine........(and has insulation properties v. similar of 10mm!) but level the floor first.....then lay insulation......then level again and tile.......this way you get the most heat transfer.......all the best

Thanks Lee, I have just quoted a job using exactly this method. I doubt I will get it, as someone will come along and say " you don't need to do all that" they will be much cheaper than me, but I know they will be cutting corners. I'm sure my competitors will dot and dab the 600x300 porcelain tiles directly to the concrete, maybe primed with PVA.

I hope my potential client is reading this thread, it may help me win the job.

 

[Protilers]

Thanks Lee, I have just quoted a job using exactly this method. I doubt I will get it, as someone will come along and say " you don't need to do all that" they will be much cheaper than me, but I know they will be cutting corners. I'm sure my competitors will dot and dab the 600x300 porcelain tiles directly to the concrete, maybe primed with PVA.

I hope my potential client is reading this thread, it may help me win the job.

I hope you client reads this too Phil..........and no doubt you have explained but I will give my reasoning.......

you level the floor first because you want to remove all the major and minor deviation from the floor........
then you lay the backerboard, because you now have a flat floor......then you lay the heatmat on the backerboard......and therefore the next lot of leveling will encompass the heatmat and the heatmat alone......
IE minimal depth with no air voids!!!!!!

then you can prime and tile as usual and the heatmat will be as close to the tiles as possible......as well as insulated....therefore maximum heat transfer......

this will give you not only the correct installation method but will also give you maximum heat transfer (IE......warm for longer and heats up quicker!!!).......oh, and lower running costs!..........

as I AM ABSOLUTLY SURE YOU ADVISED YOUR CLIENT..............

Lee

 

[AliGage]

Thanks all of you for advice

Aligage this is the installation guide mate it's a brand called rachem (from CTD) there are alot of pages but the instructions that come with the mat I get are from page 21 and it says subfloor, then mat, then tile adhesive, then tile it doesnt even mention slc either? Not saying you any of you are wrong as I see how it would be costly to run but just wanted you to see what I have got to follow lol!!

Here it is:
http://ru-ru.thermal.pentair.com/Images/EN-RaychemFloorheating-TH-CDE0695_tcm506-35938.pdf

Mate turn to page 32

 

[Protilers]

hope you get the job John (the client will suffer in the end!) ......PAY CHEAP, PAY TWICE springs to mind...........its such a shame when professional tilers lose out to chancer's with thier PVA etc.......

all the best

Lee

 

[joshtiler]

That page is not included in the manual you get with the mat though mate it doesn't even mention it in the book. I totally agree with what all of you are saying about the heat loss it just doesnt say that you should use any sort of cement board which is stupid isn't it!! It labels it as an option when really it should be a must if it will make the mat more efficient?? Im still going to lay boards on the screed would it have to be the ones it says in the manual? What would you use mate?