Limestone Nightmare

[Groutcho Marks]

Test number one

Test number one

 

[Groutcho Marks]

Hello all, Pics of whole room first

 

[Groutcho Marks]

Damage


From this angle, when the light catches it you can see dark patches where the acid has been.

From above you can see cloudy type burn marks

A bit of both

You can see the small roller marks on this one

The next few are with sealer on a few tiles to show the colour when wet

I must say, when looking at these photos on my post, there isn't one that shows the real natural colours of the stone. They are realy nice. Honest.

I think the acid has rather than removed the grout from my livingroom floor (opus), has made it lighter and stand out more. The close up of the kitchen floor, which was grouted in the same way shows no grout.

So you can see my dilema. I'll admit it, I've burnt the face of my own livingroom floor with acid. I want the colour to be the same as the picture which shows the sealer on. This sealer used (HG Impregnaor) dries back to the same colour as before it is applied. In an ideal world, just a coat of something that stays the colour I want it, or will I need more drastic measures?

All opinions welcome

WT

 

[Groutcho Marks]

Sorry had to spit my post, too many pics.


Kitchen floor, same material, different pattern, No acid

Living Room in opus pattern, where the acid was used.

Cheers

 

[kev]

Hi, i've done a fair few stone floors, and the sealer always seemed to be a bit of a problem, but the one i prefer to use now is the water based 'novacryl'
I always thin it and if you apply 3 or 4 coats you can get a really nice deep shine to it, almost like a wet look. but you do have to make sure you thin it for the best results.
I'm not sure what you would have to do to your tiles first to prepare them for this sealer tho, maybe someone else will have an answer to that. good luck anyway.

kev

 

[hmaint]

just a thought would it be more cost effective to rip your existing tiles up & starting again rather than go through all the contiuous effort of trying to rectify your as you say massive mistake!? i,m sure you will solve the problem bud. goodluck anyway!!!:yikes:😳:mad2:

 

[Groutcho Marks]

Hi, i've done a fair few stone floors, and the sealer always seemed to be a bit of a problem, but the one i prefer to use now is the water based 'novacryl'
I always thin it and if you apply 3 or 4 coats you can get a really nice deep shine to it, almost like a wet look. but you do have to make sure you thin it for the best results.
I'm not sure what you would have to do to your tiles first to prepare them for this sealer tho, maybe someone else will have an answer to that. good luck anyway.

kev

Thanks for your comments, all the best

WT

 

[DHTiling]

That looks like Bastille limestone..



I think Aquamix Enrich and seal will sort that floor out colour wise.....remove the traces of old sealer and use the aqua mix one.

 

[Groutcho Marks]

That looks like Bastille limestone..



I think Aquamix Enrich and seal will sort that floor out colour wise.....remove the traces of old sealer and use the aqua mix one.

Thank you for spending your time on replying to my posts

 

[Richard Edwards]

Dear Groucho

I am saddened my your sorry tale. I am a big fan of Limestone and have layed it for clients and myself.

It's important to think clearly why this has happened.

The acid based cleaner has etched the limestone - ie dissolved some of the softer parts of each stone piece and hence the result.

Calcareous stones - Limestone, travertine etc are formed my calcium desposits from seashells and other marine organisims and compressed and hence are basically alkaline deposits. Using acid dissolves the material - hence why they used acid in grout cleaners - to dissolve the limestone used cement production.

To get back to the original surface finish you might have a look and a caustic soda wash - but try a really small area first and start well diluted, uping the strength as you experiement. Watch out Caustic, is exothermic and mix crystals slowly to cold clean water with wooden stick. ! Wear eye protection and gloves.

I think HG Impreg is OK - use the special thicker molecule version for limestone / travertine (White bottle) and thin the first coat with turps and apply with wide soft hand brush as it gets better penetration and wipe off straight away.

In sympathy

Richard

 

[Terry Cottar]

I have just read this post. Please indicate where you are in the Country if it is not too far I will try and send someone to look at the floor. If not I will write you a description process post that will sort the floor for you. Its not the end of the World and you don't need to rip it up.

tel

 

[Groutcho Marks]

I have just read this post. Please indicate where you are in the Country if it is not too far I will try and send someone to look at the floor. If not I will write you a description process post that will sort the floor for you. Its not the end of the World and you don't need to rip it up.

tel

Hi Tel,
Whitby, North Yorkshire. I've just got in now (9:15pm) from where the damaged floor is, I've given it a coat of lithofin colour intensifier and it seems to have got rid of all the white cloudy areas and has darkened the whole floor to some degree. It was hard to see the true result as I was working with one large halogen lamp. I'll look again in daylight tomorrow. Hopefully a few coats of this may suffice but please carry on with your ideas anyway.

Thanks

WT

 

[Terry Cottar]

Hi Tel,
Whitby, North Yorkshire. I've just got in now (9:15pm) from where the damaged floor is, I've given it a coat of lithofin colour intensifier and it seems to have got rid of all the white cloudy areas and has darkened the whole floor to some degree. It was hard to see the true result as I was working with one large halogen lamp. I'll look again in daylight tomorrow. Hopefully a few coats of this may suffice but please carry on with your ideas anyway.

Thanks

WT

OK have a look at it in the morning but I think you may have made it worse as the lithofin will not be able to penetrate easily and evenly because of the other sealants. I suspect that it will dry dark and light i.e. even more patchy. However, I may be wrong so lets see in the morning. If you still have a problem PM me with your telephone number and I will talk you through it.

tel

 

[Groutcho Marks]

So the lithofin has worked, all be it only a little. You can no longer see the pail cloudy areas you could see from stood above the tiles, the whole floor is slightly darker. It has taken away the whole washed out look. Looking from an angle with the light behind you can still see all the roller marks that the acid has etched in. It is getting closer to the colour I wanted. Do I spend my time putting another few coats of intensifier on? , this may give me the colour i am after but will probably not hide the etching. Or some other abrasive method, so to make the surface of each tile the same texture/finish?


WT

 

[Terry Cottar]

So the lithofin has worked, all be it only a little. You can no longer see the pail cloudy areas you could see from stood above the tiles, the whole floor is slightly darker. It has taken away the whole washed out look. Looking from an angle with the light behind you can still see all the roller marks that the acid has etched in. It is getting closer to the colour I wanted. Do I spend my time putting another few coats of intensifier on? , this may give me the colour i am after but will probably not hide the etching. Or some other abrasive method, so to make the surface of each tile the same texture/finish?


WT

You are exacerbating the problem. You are adding more sealer and to make it worse two different sealers. Stone reaches a saturation point where it will accept no more sealer. You need to strip all the sealer off to do the job properley and then deal with the etching and then reseal it. PM me with your telephone number and I will ring you and talk you through it.

tel

 

[Richard Edwards]

Hi Groutcho

I agree with Terry - not sure if you read my long-wind reply - Strip off all the sealer and then deal with real problem - Consider neutralising the limestone with a caustic wash to remove etched areas. Warning please read my notes on caustic use or if your not convinced speak to technical at HG UkKdivision.

Hope you get it right - its a nice job otherwise

Richard

 

[Groutcho Marks]

Hi Groutcho

I agree with Terry - not sure if you read my long-wind reply - Strip off all the sealer and then deal with real problem - Consider neutralising the limestone with a caustic wash to remove etched areas. Warning please read my notes on caustic use or if your not convinced speak to technical at HG UkKdivision.

Hope you get it right - its a nice job otherwise

Richard

Thanks for your second post Richard. I did read your first post thanks. I have had a long telephone conversation with Mr Cotta today and I will be stripping the old sealer off first with Aquamix sealer remover and a mechanical floor cleaner. Then Aquamix nanoscrub, if that has not removed the etching I may have to use a honing powder. When I have got the floor back to the desired finish and it has had time to completely dry, finish it with Aguamix enrich and seal. So it was a similar proposal to yours.

Thanks for your input

WT

 

[bootsmckiber]

If you can I'd rip up affected tile,if it's to much use a "high gloss"enhancer,you'll think your on a skating rink,talk to your tile supply guy,they're usually straightforward,if you don't replace tile I'd think you'll still have stains there,only use acid in extreme cases(like at a Pink Floyd concert,jk)I always use vinegar and water.good luck,Mike

 

[Groutcho Marks]

If you can I'd rip up affected tile,if it's to much use a "high gloss"enhancer,you'll think your on a skating rink,talk to your tile supply guy,they're usually straightforward,if you don't replace tile I'd think you'll still have stains there,only use acid in extreme cases(like at a Pink Floyd concert,jk)I always use vinegar and water.good luck,Mike

Ha ha ok thanks (I think!)