Little help needed setting out before I start another project

[saintdom]

cheers jay

but unless you have a nice even floor , which i rarely do these days:mad2:, that seems like more hastle than putting up a batten.
Speaking to a couple of ozzies they were amazed our tubbed gear slipped so much, they reckoned back home they could still start from a batten line without the batten. no slip whatsoever. they were ozzies though

 

[jay]

cheers jay

but unless you have a nice even floor , which i rarely do these days:mad2:, that seems like more hastle than putting up a batten.
Speaking to a couple of ozzies they were amazed our tubbed gear slipped so much, they reckoned back home they could still start from a batten line without the batten. no slip whatsoever. they were ozzies though

yes there are a lot of non slip adh available (tubbed and cement based) always use cement base if you mark a level line of first tile line then cut tile to suit , you will struggle to find a flat floor anywere just take your time and it will get easier

 

[saintdom]

cheers fella,

just something i have not tried before, must be set in my ways.
I just prefer adding the bottom row last and using wedges or tape or both to guarantee good even grout line but i may just give it a go one day

 

[jay]

just remember get the first row right and the rest should be easy
and adh will hang some tiles but the bigger ones it wont always use spacers or wedges:8:

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I always have two lines, one the datum that will be the finish of my tile. The other line is staffed up from the floor, this allows me to mark the bottom cut without grovelling on the floor. The distance between the two lines gives me the exact size / shape of the bottom cut, even if the floor undulates . Hope this makes sense

 

[macten]

cheers fella,

just something i have not tried before, must be set in my ways.
I just prefer adding the bottom row last and using wedges or tape or both to guarantee good even grout line but i may just give it a go one day

Cutting the bottom row in is more of a pain afterwards as you have to be bang on measurement wise or the silicone joint will look messy. Doing it first without battens is just as easy to measure (with laser) and you don't need to be mm perfect as the floor tiles will be going in after. Another bonus is the silicone joint will be perfectly uniform as marking and cutting the floor tiles is easier.

 

[saintdom]

cheers for the info guys, you have me intrigued now.

one quick question though, and ill try and word it best i can.
If i have my laser level for the bottom tile , surely you would need to be more accurate with your cut as if you cut it smaller than it should be by a mm or so you would need to keep packing it up so it doesnt slip from the line. Say i was using a rubi wedge to support but cut slightly smaller therefore i would not be on the laser line and would need to try and add another wedge or spacer or cardboard.

id just be worried big time that a tile may slip and ruin my whole level.

does this make any sense

 

[jay]

mark your line on wall
norm for me that floor is laid first
cut tiles to fit tip turn tile upside down to mark (try to explain) with tile upside down mark left hand side on right hand side of were you want it to go in other words opposite norm mark so you cut marked lines off just you will get the hang of it you will need to cut tile on angle depending on floor
make sure adh isn't runny
you can adjust wedges (in more or out to take up diff)
you should be able to get a neat cut with practice

 

[saintdom]

cheers jay

i use the upside down and opposite marks for the angle no probs at all , and dont have major issues with the neatness of cuts , think i just worry too much when i try something new. i think i will try this method on a bathroom i have in a couple of weeks, the more i think about it the more sense it makes . and if it all goes pete tong ill just blame you lot.:lol:

 

[jay]

just remember always use spacers or wedges dont trust your adh to hang and if large tiles used or heavy only go half to three quarters of the way up wall then let dry unless using rapid set adh

 

[mmmadman]

Hi All

I'm only a novice but I am embarking on a complete bathroom install myself in the next few weeks.

I have read that you should fill the bath with water to load it up and then tile down to it, is this correct or is it just for a new bath installation.....?


Cheers........

 

[macten]

Tile up from the bath leaving 2-3mm gap for movement. The bath should already be siloconed to wall (I usually fill it at that point) and then again when applying my final silicone bead.