Little help needed setting out before I start another project

[tiler robbo]

If bath is level (and it should be) and full tile from bath works everywhere else than I would tile off the bath personally. Why cut? It's like full tile off a kitchen worktop - it looks better.

Try middle of tile and/or grout line in center of window and see what cuts it leaves, if neither of them work then tweak the best of the two left or right.

I've checked & double checked the bath & comes up level at all angles. Only got to run just under 4 tiles along the longest edge & under 2 along the short edges so will place freely first & check the level across the top of the first run. If ok I will batton off from the edge of the bath to carry on the run.

Will the bath act as a batton & stop the tiles slipping ok? If I do it this way, it will leave me a tile & a half to fix under the batton area, I'm assuming tiling down from here to the floor will be ok?

 

[macten]

The bath should be tight up and siliconed to the wall so no problem of tiles slipping. Remember to leave a couple mm movement joint above bath - best to use rubi wedges and spent lots of time making little adjustments so the tops of the tiles are bang-on level.

Tiling from there to the floor is fine on the short length, then you can choose to batton along the rest of the wall leaving your cut 1/2 tile to go in later or just put your cuts from the floor in straight away and tile up from there (easier to work without battens if you have a laser level)

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I always put a datum line all around the room, predetermined by staff and laser level ( if you don't have a laser, use a good spirit level) remember to reverse the level each time you mark the wall, in case the level is slightly out. Once you have the datum line you can start anywhere, I never use battens, but you can use your staff/ gauge to set them. Never fix your first tile, until you know where your last tile will go. one hour preparing is always well spent. Good luck

 

[saintdom]

hey guys

quick question to you guys who never use battens, how do you stop your tile from slipping, i tried it once by just using my laser and never again, was using bal whitestar and the little beggars slipped every time by at least a couple of mm.
please tell me your secret.

 

[jay]

hey guys

quick question to you guys who never use battens, how do you stop your tile from slipping, i tried it once by just using my laser and never again, was using bal whitestar and the little feckers slipped every time by at least a couple of mm.
please tell me your secret.

you cut first row in and use tile wedges to sopport them get them level then continue up should only be a 2mm gap to floor

 

[saintdom]

cheers jay

but unless you have a nice even floor , which i rarely do these days:mad2:, that seems like more hastle than putting up a batten.
Speaking to a couple of ozzies they were amazed our tubbed gear slipped so much, they reckoned back home they could still start from a batten line without the batten. no slip whatsoever. they were ozzies though

 

[jay]

cheers jay

but unless you have a nice even floor , which i rarely do these days:mad2:, that seems like more hastle than putting up a batten.
Speaking to a couple of ozzies they were amazed our tubbed gear slipped so much, they reckoned back home they could still start from a batten line without the batten. no slip whatsoever. they were ozzies though

yes there are a lot of non slip adh available (tubbed and cement based) always use cement base if you mark a level line of first tile line then cut tile to suit , you will struggle to find a flat floor anywere just take your time and it will get easier

 

[saintdom]

cheers fella,

just something i have not tried before, must be set in my ways.
I just prefer adding the bottom row last and using wedges or tape or both to guarantee good even grout line but i may just give it a go one day

 

[jay]

just remember get the first row right and the rest should be easy
and adh will hang some tiles but the bigger ones it wont always use spacers or wedges:8:

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I always have two lines, one the datum that will be the finish of my tile. The other line is staffed up from the floor, this allows me to mark the bottom cut without grovelling on the floor. The distance between the two lines gives me the exact size / shape of the bottom cut, even if the floor undulates . Hope this makes sense