me again.plaster board & bathrooms

[kickinside]

Hi all,

well i WAS hot on the trail of dot and dab plasterboard to the walls and tile away having cleaned the walls back to bare brick...

I have now been advised on no account to use plasterboard anywhere in a bathroom - that i should be using waterproof plasterboard at the least, preferably aquaboard -problem is as far as i can see they cant be dot & dabbed so that means stud work....and for 10mm poc tiles thats goign to mean 2"*2" (walls area bit out as well..)

The problem with this is that if i put stud work in all the baths/showers etc wont fit!

OOPS....

What say you guys to this sage advice ( the shower is a sealed 'shower cabin' so not in contact with the walls, bath will be bath only (no shower)

No one was mentioning this on her so i guess it may be BS im being told?

 

[White Room]

On site they may use moisture resistant boards, but I have standard boards in my bathroom so do millions of other households. If you have any concerns about standard boards tank them just to isolate from any moisture

 

[kickinside]

Thanks...now why didn't I think of that!

So basically no issue?

onward and upward then...

thanks again!

 

[doug boardley]

plasterboard are fine, use the green ones (moisture resistant) if it'll make you feel more at ease, double up with a tanking ststem in the "wet areas" no problems, was it an aquapanel salesman that advised you?

 

[kickinside]

hmm can you dot and dab the green ones?

No it wasn't - but i think the person that did tell me may have been told that by an aquapanel sales guy!

 

[doug boardley]

yes mate, you can d&d the green (moisture resistant) boards.

 

[White Room]

I've only ever fixed the green ones to stud work, you can only get them minimum 8x4s. Standard boards you can buy 6x3s

 

[kickinside]

8*4 is just fine and dandy...stud work isnt good though, i was told MR is studs only...then again Doug seems to think otherwise...

 

[Perry]

I wouldn't use the green ones tiles don't stick as well to them tell the u are putting the tiles the bathroom side and the plasterboard behind it works better that way if you need to tank anything fine but if its getting that wet behind the tiles it wont mater if its green pink or Grey or got white spots on you will have a problem (do these guys get paid for this advice lol) ete

 

[Rav daniels]

hi i would dot and dab normal plaster board, then tank shower area using bal wp1.

 

[steve bocking]

never dot and dab any boards just asking for trouble i can across a new build job that was dot and dabed boards they had to change shower tray took screen off tiles and boards fell off wall

 

[doug boardley]

oh dear, seems I may have got it wrong about MR boards and dot and dabbing them! (altho' it's perfectly ok with normal boards). I'll give British gypsum a ring today to clarify the situation

 

[Rav daniels]

never dot and dab any boards just asking for trouble i can across a new build job that was dot and dabed boards they had to change shower tray took screen off tiles and boards fell off wall

we dot and dab walls all the time and never had a problem, in the case you mention something is not right, whether the tiles exeed the 32kg per m2 limit, not used correct adhesive for dot and dab,whatever happened i have never heard of that before

 

[doug boardley]

phoned British Gypsum today (08705 465123 option 4!), absoutely no problem dot and dabbing MR boards, excellent material to tile onto.The adviser said the only cautionary note was to leave d&dabbed boards 7 days to fully cure before tiling (as I guess the added weight could possibly de-bond the dry wall adhesive from its substrate)

 

[kickinside]

Doug, thank you very much for taking the time!

7 days is a bit of a pain though i was hoping to board and tile this weekend....wonder if thats MR specific - as others have said a matter of hours normally if you use adhesive for 'normal' board...i guess they may just be covering themselves good and proper as well.....

anyway many many thanks for taking the time!