Mosaic onto kitchen unit

[Colour Republic]

I'm struggling to work out your design.

I take it some of the displayed drawing is going to act as a worktop? If so you just won't have the structural strength in marmox. Especially over the span it appears to be, although again hard to tell as there are no dimensions on the drawing.

First work out what materials would be structurally stable over the spans needed and also straight andtrue, then decide which of those materials are best suited to tiling

 

[Mr Tiler]

Good luck mate dont forget the pics

 

[White Room]

I am going to sleep on this and ask customer more questions tomorrow, thanks for your help so far.

What are the mosaic, porcelain etc....

 

[jstrats]

For white glass mosaic you will need a white backing otherwise any dark material will change the colour.....

They are ceramic tiles.

Have sent customer link to these posts, hopefully she can submit more info for you guys.

 

[Old Mod]

- De-coupling layer - Dural DURABASE CI++ matting
- mosaic tiling on top

Anybody see any flaws? Do you think this method would be ok with thin white ceramic mosaic?

Muchos regards, Jamie.

hey jstrats, as far Durabase is concerned 50x50 is smallest recommended tile size. Maybe something like the new Bal De-coupler would work!
Well Bal say it's suitable for Mosaic!

BAL Adhesives - Products - rapid-mat

 

[MTiler]

hey jstrats, as far Durabase is concerned 50x50 is smallest recommended tile size. Maybe something like the new Bal De-coupler would work!
Well Bal say it's suitable for Mosaic!

BAL Adhesives - Products - rapid-mat

And the same for Ditra, theres always Mapei Mapetex system which is great stuff.

 

[Nina]

Thank you so much for the tips, and thanks Jstrats for starting the thread.

To fill in the information the floor tile is the 25mm white ceramic mosaics.

The L-shaped kitchen counter unit needs to be self-supporting, although it is not so high (425mm), it is required to span over a horizontal distance of approximately 3000 mm. It'll be supported vertically by unit dividers at 400mm intervals. The walls to be tiles are thin: 25mm (tiled on both sides, so the actual thickness would be 18mm)

I wanted to use a product that is both structural and suitable for tiling, so I called up both Marmox Multiboard and Kerdi boards' technical teams. I was told that the Marmox board (20mm) would require vertical supports at 200mm intervals, which would be too narrow in this case. But the Kerdi installed some confidence - I was told the 19mm board would be sufficient. The Kerdi also comes with U-shaped stainless steel profiles, the perforated version would be suitable for tiling onto the edges (?) which also adds additional structural support. I have never constructed anything using this materials before, therefore the idea was solely based on the super strength and versatility shown in the videos. I'd be most grateful if anyone could share their experiences using the Kerdi.

For the floor, I'm using a thin 18mm screedboard Underfloor heating. The area for the mosaics is larger than usual (about 46 sqm). Initially I was thinking of covering the UFH boards with 6mm Hardibacker board with a flexible adhesive and clout nails. Now I wonder if it'd be more straight forward to use self-levelling compound instead, although my concern is that it might crack. Any suggestions or recommendations would be much appreciated.