Newly drylined and skimmed bathroom

[pandabear]

It's my first post here so a big Hi to all of you!

I am looking for a little advice, we are about to start a bathroom install in a loft conversion which has been drylined. The external wall was dot and dabbed with the internals and ceiling screwed in place. The room has been skimmed over the past week.

So the question is, is there a recommended time after skimming that we should wait before tiling the walls? It is likely be at least two weeks after the skim before the bath and pan connector are in situ, are we able to start tiling immediately afterwards?

Your advice is most welcome!

Thanks in advance


PB

 

[strummerman]

its all just to keep tilers happy full of of female hormones and that :lol:

 

[White Room]

The dots are the adhesive and dabbing is the fixing of the board......

 

[Dan]

Tilerjason said at the end of this post:http://www.tilersforums.com/tiling-forum/59557-newly-drylined-skimmed-bathroom.html#post612903

That dots were the screws and dabs were the adhesive.

Though I thought like you that the dots were adhesive and the dabbing was the term for fixing them to the wall in general.

 

[White Room]

Screwing is somethink I'v heard recently for standard boards,thermal boards are a different issue, extra dabs should be applied where fixings, sinks, radiators etc are being fixed/screwed to the walls...if the screws heads break the surface on the paper facing they are next to useless anyway....I learnt with British Gypsum in 1999 perhaps I should be asking for my money back I've been doing wrong all these years.

 

[AliGage]

I thought the same as you Dan. The dot and dab bit.
If a board required a stronger fixing (i.e screws) i'd build a timber frame on the block work and secure the boards.

 

[Dan]

Weird. I think. lol

 

[widler]

Never even heard of screwing dot and dabbing, except maybe thermal. And sorry jason 🙂 dot and dab is called dot and dab cos of the dots of addy and dabbing down with your level/featheredge.
Has anybody on here tried to rip of dot and dabbing, if that can't hold upto, is it 32kg m2 for unskimmed? Then it aint done right.
And its dabs down each end, about 6" apart,(a bit like scews in a party wall) then same down middle,dabs across skirting and the top, and some around sockets so the board dont pull in when screwed. Well thats how we have done it since the 80s 🙂 🙂


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[Aston]

quick update on this. i rang british gypsum regarding the screwing of boards and they now claim they only recommend mechanical fixing for thermal boards. they now stick to their origional claim that if you are fixing stone tiles to their plasterboards, then an extra horizontal bead of adhesive should be placed about mid height for extra strength.
ffs it comes to something when bg have tech reps giving contrasting advice.

ps dot and dab is a term that goes back a while. its not dots of adhesive and dabbing the boards. its easy to think that but thats not where the term comes from

dots are the same dots that are used to form screeds when doing internal rendering
the dots are set in adhesive and plumbed up using a straight edge and level. this is done at either end of the room and inbetween so it basically forms a grid on the wall..

tha dabs where 'dabs' of gyspum adhesive that where placed on the wall and then the baords where pressed into the dabs untill the touched the dots. when the baords touched the dots, then you knew the boards would be plumb, straight and perfectly in line.. old school way of forming a perfect wall. you use this method in rendering and dryling...

for rendering, its called....'plumb , dot and screed' the rolls royce of forming screeds
for drylining, its called, 'dot and dab'

hope this helps ;0)

 

[widler]

quick update on this. i rang british gypsum regarding the screwing of boards and they now claim they only recommend mechanical fixing for thermal boards. they now stick to their origional claim that if you are fixing stone tiles to their plasterboards, then an extra horizontal bead of adhesive should be placed about mid height for extra strength.
ffs it comes to something when bg have tech reps giving contrasting advice.

ps dot and dab is a term that goes back a while. its not dots of adhesive and dabbing the boards. its easy to think that but thats not where the term comes from

dots are the same dots that are used to form screeds when doing internal rendering
the dots are set in adhesive and plumbed up using a straight edge and level. this is done at either end of the room and inbetween so it basically forms a grid on the wall..

tha dabs where 'dabs' of gyspum adhesive that where placed on the wall and then the baords where pressed into the dabs untill the touched the dots. when then touched the dots, then you knew the baords would be plumb, straight and perfectly in line.. old school way of forming a perfect wall. you use this method in rendering and dryling...

for rendering, its called....'plumb , dot and screed' the rolls royce of forming screeds
for drylining, its called, 'dot and dab'

hope this helps ;0)

to be fair to moi,i was stating what 'dot and dabbing' refers to for,erm dot and dabbing plasterboards :smilewinkgrin: i have never heard the word dotting used for the use of screws :drool5:

and the other bit you wrote,we used to form screeds when doing any internal roughing,always screed then fill in,easy pesy to those who know how.

gotta admit though,ive never screeded a wall before drylining,bit over kill,dotting and screeding then drylining over it:wacky:

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Music to my ears Ed, thats the way I was taught to render, and still the method I use on slc or sand and cement screeds.