Newly drylined and skimmed bathroom

[pandabear]

It's my first post here so a big Hi to all of you!

I am looking for a little advice, we are about to start a bathroom install in a loft conversion which has been drylined. The external wall was dot and dabbed with the internals and ceiling screwed in place. The room has been skimmed over the past week.

So the question is, is there a recommended time after skimming that we should wait before tiling the walls? It is likely be at least two weeks after the skim before the bath and pan connector are in situ, are we able to start tiling immediately afterwards?

Your advice is most welcome!

Thanks in advance


PB

 

[Spud]

Thanks Ed top post mate ,I remember talking to plasterers about plumb and dot years ago and how good plasterers didnt need "grounds" to work off of as they could form their own , I also worked with tilers who would set level dots around a floor with a water level and guage stick then screed the floor out I have to rely on battens as I dont screed often enough to gain the experience to do it without them

 

[Aston]

to be fair to moi,i was stating what 'dot and dabbing' refers to for,erm dot and dabbing plasterboards :smilewinkgrin: i have never heard the word dotting used for the use of screws :drool5:

and the other bit you wrote,we used to form screeds when doing any internal roughing,always screed then fill in,easy pesy to those who know how.

gotta admit though,ive never screeded a wall before drylining,bit over kill,dotting and screeding then drylining over it:wacky:

hi wilder
you dont screed the wall? you set up dots. they are reference points set up. the dabs of adhesive are then placed inbetween the plumbed up dots slightly proud of the dots. then when you press the boards into the adhesive, the boards hit the pre set dots. whe they touch the hardened dots, they are plumb and flat..... the term dot and dab now has just been accepted but thats the origional concept

 

[widler]

hi wilder
you dont screed the wall? you set up dots. they are reference points set up. the dabs of adhesive on then placed inbetween the plumbed up dots. then when you press the boards into the adhesive, the boards hit the pre set dots. whe they touch the hardened dots, they are plumb and flat..... the term dot and dab now has just been accepted but thats the origional concept

sorry ed,maybe crossed wires,im lost mate.
when roughing on,render,browning,bonding, any plastering i always screed,its,well,its just what you do

im lost on the screeding drylining? do you mean you dot and dab,place board(we used to use slate) on the dot,plumb up and then dot the boards on top,again,im a tad thick,so im a tad lost mate:smilewinkgrin:

i know what doting and dabbing plumbing ect ect is ed,it was how i was taught in the 80s when serving my time in plastering mate.

i wa sexplainging what doting and dabin gi sin 'drylining' terms,and it certainly don't mean screwing em

 

[Aston]

ok mate, its not your fault, its so much harder writing it, if i was standing infront of you and showed you on a wall you'd say, arr i know that method...i'll do my best to explain now

step 1.
the dot... imagine you put a blob of say sand and cement on the top of a wall and then cut a piece of plasterboard or lathe about inch thick and say 3 inches long and bedded into the blob of sand and cement..

step 2
you do the exact same procedure at the bottom of the wall...you now would put your straight edge/level on the lathe/dot on the top of the wall and the lathe/dot ant the bottom of the wall and tap the level till it show plumb/level

you now have 2 dots embedded in sand and cement that are perfectly level/plumb in which to form a screed between.
so the dot system was origionally used to form level reference points. instead of forming screeds, they would place dabs of adhesive between the plumbed up dots that were proud/raised above the surface of the dots. they would then press the boards into the adhesive and the baords would touch the hardened dots and this was the guarantee that the boards where level.

now they used this system on long walls so they had to be sure that the work was bang on back then because surprislingly enought, thats how we used to work lol ;0)

once you had one end of the wall plumb, you could do the same at the other end..the wall could be 3 miles long because as long as you had both ends levels, you could extend a string line the whole length of the wall and place dots in between that where bang on...

phew, sorry for the lenght of this, i am getting knackered typing lol....this method is called dots...these dots are reference point to work to. you can form screeds for plastering between them, screeds for floor screeding (as gary said ;0)) or finally for forming the reference guides in which to ultra ensure a long long was was bang on using plasterboards....

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Thanks Ed top post mate ,I remember talking to plasterers about plumb and dot years ago and how good plasterers didnt need "grounds" to work off of as they could form their own , I also worked with tilers who would set level dots around a floor with a water level and guage stick then screed the floor out I have to rely on battens as I dont screed often enough to gain the experience to do it without them

Gary you would walk it, the way I screed would be second nature to you. I am not saying this is the only way, as everyone has their own ways. I wish I had some video of this, there are some on youtube. On site we would be given a datum line 1m ffl (finished floor level) by the site engineer, we then set a dot for screed height,(less thickness of tile adhesive/slurry) we then use this dot or pad as some people call them.

Using a laser or dumpy I would then transfare this level to where I intend to start screeding. As I use a 3m box section straight edge I set my dots/ pads at 2.75m apart, I make a square dot from semi-dry approx 200mmx200mm, using a boat level to check my dot is spot on, (this is vital) I then compact the semi-dry dot. The next dot is set in the same way.

I then join up my two dots by compacting semi-dry between them, again making sure that these "runners" as I call them are spot on and well compacted, repeat this 2.75 m away creating a bay. Having got my runners in place I can then fill in the bay with screed using the runners as a guide, (this is something that can take time to master) imo a good screeder will not use a wood/plastic float to finish, the technique is always in the wrists and the straight edge.

I used to lay 100m2 70mm ready mix on a regular basis. I still love screeding, enjoy it more than tiling, then again it does not require as much concentration.

 

[Spud]

Thanks Phil thats exactly how I have seen it done and believe me I have tried several times to do it that way but always seen to create a hollow as I pull the straight edge back along the screed channel, I dont think I get the compaction right and seem to pull the surface out as i screed it back, with the batten method I use it is much slower and i can only really get 20-25m2 a done before the lunch time deadline but i find that my work is more acurate it is a pain going back and removing the battens and filling the channels and I would love to be able to to it the way you do

 

[White Room]

I find you can get an excellent finish with the aluminium screed rules....

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

http://www.cg-flooring.com/sand-cement-screed-/sand-cement-screed-.aspx Gary I started screeding a the age of 15 and went through all kinds of methods, until I met Tony Cullen, a legend,( he was at my 60th,) on the big jobs I would drop in a bay next to Tony, we always stayed a couple of meters apart so we don't clash edges, I always managed to keep up with Tony, the difference being I was sweating like a pig, and Tony was whistling (no effort).

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I find you can get an excellent finish with the aluminium screed rules....

Mark I agree, as I say mine is not the only way, each to their own, as always

 

[White Room]

I do my screed similar to yourself....dots, screeds and rule from them...

 

[Aston]

sorry, i have posted this vid before but if you fast forward to 3 mins 40 secs, then you can see the tecnique of using the straight edge....notice he is relaxed! not digging in and also notice, that the flooring rule is wider at the bottom than at the top!!! this helps. much better balance... i am sure refina sell these floor rules....anyway, once again, its not as difficult as people think, couple of days practice with a few damp bags of course sand and you'll nail the technique down in your sleep..

[video=youtube;HsaL2LVIbA4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsaL2LVIbA4[/video]

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Ed is that me? I could not explain it better, even down to day joints. I was looking for this on you tube. a bit spooky watching that.

 

[Aston]

telepathy mr hobson ;0)

 

[widler]

ok mate, its not your fault, its so much harder writing it, if i was standing infront of you and showed you on a wall you'd say, arr i know that method...i'll do my best to explain now

step 1.
the dot... imagine you put a blob of say sand and cement on the top of a wall and then cut a piece of plasterboard or lathe about inch thick and say 3 inches long and bedded into the blob of sand and cement..

step 2
you do the exact same procedure at the bottom of the wall...you now would put your straight edge/level on the lathe/dot on the top of the wall and the lathe/dot ant the bottom of the wall and tap the level till it show plumb/level

you now have 2 dots embedded in sand and cement that are perfectly level/plumb in which to form a screed between.
so the dot system was origionally used to form level reference points. instead of forming screeds, they would place dabs of adhesive between the plumbed up dots that were proud/raised above the surface of the dots. they would then press the boards into the adhesive and the baords would touch the hardened dots and this was the guarantee that the boards where level.

now they used this system on long walls so they had to be sure that the work was bang on back then because surprislingly enought, thats how we used to work lol ;0)

once you had one end of the wall plumb, you could do the same at the other end..the wall could be 3 miles long because as long as you had both ends levels, you could extend a string line the whole length of the wall and place dots in between that where bang on...

phew, sorry for the lenght of this, i am getting knackered typing lol....this method is called dots...these dots are reference point to work to. you can form screeds for plastering between them, screeds for floor screeding (as gary said ;0)) or finally for forming the reference guides in which to ultra ensure a long long was was bang on using plasterboards....

:lol: ok ed,we obviously have got our wires crossed,sorry for making you write all that,you have just taught a fish to swim mate:smilewinkgrin:

 

[jwatson]

12 dabs???? where you pull that from? how can you quantify 12 dabs-my dabs may be bigger than yours ect. and as far as i know you can do 2 8x4 boards per 25kgbag
4 solid continues lines of dry wall adhesive on an 8x4 board(across the 4 foot side) with a continues bead at top and bottom to conform with fire regulations

They also recommend 1 bag of dry line adhesive for 1 8x4 board , fixed with 12 dabs and 12 screws hence the phrase dot and dab , dots Being screws and dabs being adhesive