overboarding chipboard hallway?

[Lee Knights]

Just a bit of advice really, normally just read other posts and that got me through our first bathroom tile but now tiling hallway and just keep reading conflicting advice. (and most of the stores have said don't bother overboarding but the forum suggests otherwise)

Hallway is shaped in an F shape and the bit under the stairs (the top of the F) is maximum 1.5m x 1.5m

We have the delightful chipboard as flooring which can't be removed easily. It is level, sound and very little movement. (glass of water test)



We would like to tile and currently this is the plan

Overboard 6mm (not ideal but front door does not shift and 10mm would prob stop door opening) This is sandwiched with addy and screwed.
Not sure whether to use Marmox or NMP?

Then Kereflex maxi (Had considered Keraquick but I'm not the quickest of workers)

Tile (std ceramic 300mmx300mm)

Grout (Keracolour)


Is there anything really stupid about the plan or have I missed anything? It's the overboarding I'm unsure about.
Thank you for your help CK

 

[Mike Mike]

Plan sounds tip top to me. Never used it, but don't personally like the look of NMP. I would say Marmox or a cement backboard (Hardibacker do a 6mm for floors).

Good luck! And remember, when you're finished, "pics or it didn't happen" :lol:

 

[martin1c]

Marmox is lovely to work with but you need the bed of adhesive which will build up the height a little more than NMP. NMP is also easy to work with so out of the two I would choose NMP

 

[Brinkley]

nmp is the same as hardie board i would also add more screws to the chipboard stick with cement board in this case if i were you

 

[Mike Mike]

nmp is the same as hardie board you are gonna be very very close to the door not opening any way as the adhesive bed under the boards is only 2-3 mm once screwed . i would take the door off and shave it down a tad

You're right! I was thinking of that Nicobond Plastic Ply. :mad2:

 

[Perry]

I would use marmox and you could always use 10mm and where the door swings put a mat well in then the door would open if you see what I mean lol

 

[Lee Knights]

Cheers all I'm getting closer to "getting round to it"

We'd considered a mat well but because the hallway is narrow we thought it would look like we had just done that bit lower to clear the door.

In terms of clearance I'd added in my calculations a layer of addy under the board (and a bit extra). There is 30mm clearance from chipboard to door. I probably can clear addy, 10mm, addy, tile but it is difficult to judge the whole swing of the door and its one of those heavy duty composite jobs and very little adjustment upwards. Will have to shave off the bottom of the loo door though. ( That'l prob result in me taking the door off and re-hanging next winter)


We'll see how it turns out before posting pics It may take some time, the botched (not by me) laminate was ripped up last summer when we had a skip and decided it would be a good idea. Kinda getting used to the green chipboard look (and these good ideas we have)!
CK

 

[Perry]

30 mm should have plenty of room

 

[Lee Knights]

ok have gone with the 10mm marmox

Just a couple of questions

I was planning on fixing the Marmox with a sandwich layer of addy and screws/washers.

The wife has come back with Keraquick not Keraflex is this just a quickset version of the keraflex? The men in the shop said we needed Keraquick (she works near the store hence why she was picking it up).

Do I need to prime the chipboard before the addy layer?

And at what point do you screw the screws into the Marmox?- When the adhesive has set or before it sets?

Some people have said it's one or other (screw or addy) but others have said best to do both.

Thanks for your help
Lee