Tiling on to chipboard flooring

[richardbell81]

Fastflex should hold fine I would think to use ditra as ling as your floor has no bounce. What about backer board to 10mm?

As I said previously, i'm just trying to add as little height as possible at this stage. I have considered a 6mm hardi board but from what i can see, the ditra matting seems like a good solution!

 

[richardbell81]

Ok, thanks very much for all your help, it really is appreciated. I appear to have 2 options...


1. Prime the chipboard, buy BAL Fastflex adhesive and BAL super flexible grout. Tile directly onto the current chipboard floor and hopefully this would do the job, although no guarantee but it would not raise the floor any higher.


OR...


2. Prime the chipbaord, overboard with a 6mm tile backing board (hardiebacker or cement board), then buy BAL Fastflex adhesive and BAL super flexible grout. Again, no guarantee, but i'm getting close. One question with this method. Would the Fastflex adhesive be suitable with the hardi/cement backing board or would a cement based adhesive such as 'bal supercover rapid flex' be more suitable? I already have a 15kg bag of the rapid flex which I was prepared to discard if the fastflex would make a better job.


Rich

So am i right in thinking I have a 3rd feasible option?

3. Cover the chipboard flooring with Ditra/Dura Matting which would hopefully give me the flexibility and extra layer I need.

I've looked on the BAL product guide and it says that the 'Supercover rapid flex' is ok to use with uncoupling membrane, so.... I could use this adhesive to bed the matting onto the chipboard and then use it to secure the tiles to the matting???

Has anyone used this system before and would I still need to prime the chipboard before the matting goes down?

 

[Ian]

It is an option but, bear in mind that decoupling membranes are designed to help with lateral movement not vertical, so if your floor has any deflection, a membrane will not help solve this nor will it add any strength to the installation.

 

[Peter]

Just to throw something into the mix, quite a few rubber crumb (liquid and powder 2 part) manufacturers state that their products can go straight to green chipboard providing there's no deflection. Done quite a bit of site work where was 2PF was specced straight onto chipboard and there's never been a single failure with any of the floors. Personally I'd overboard it on a private job though.

 

[Muse2k8]

Bal have a fibre based slc you can use on chipboard but you should still really be overlaying.

 

[richardbell81]

Would BAL single part fastflex do the same job? Only thing I want to make sure is that the floor is as water tight as necessary... I suppose if the tiles are fixed and grouted correctly the floor should be water proof enough?

 

[Mike]

grout is not waterproof. if the floor is going to get wet, i.e a wet room then you should tank the wet area before tiling

 

[TheTiler]

Hate to repeat myself friend, but you must call the BAL technical helpline and specify the substrate, conditions, type and size of tiles and the requirements of the installation (any F1 cars driving over it?)...it'll be an instant solution to your questions...

 

[jay]

Just to throw something into the mix, quite a few rubber crumb (liquid and powder 2 part) manufacturers state that their products can go straight to green chipboard providing there's no deflection. Done quite a bit of site work where was 2PF was specced straight onto chipboard and there's never been a single failure with any of the floors. Personally I'd overboard it on a private job though.

most state grout is mold proof to not to mention waterproof ,would defo overboard with 6mm hardie

 

[TheTiler]

My advice is to get a qualified tiler round to take a look at the job and pay him/her to take care of it, or at least advise you exactly how, why, and what with it should be done. It'll save a lot of time...:smilewinkgrin:

 

[richardbell81]

Called BAL Technical. To summarise what they said...

- Don't prime surface (just ensure there is no wax coating by sanding down)
- Adhesive: Single Part Fastfelx
- Grout: Wide Joint + GT1. additive.

Also said that on such a small floor the movement or deflection should be at a bare minimum.

So, there you have. Thanks again for all your advice!

 

[richardbell81]

Quick question before I begin tiling... Does anyone know if I am best butter backing the tiles with the adhesive as well as using the solid bed tipped trowel? The porcelain tiles are 600x300 with diagonal ridges underneath.

 

[macten]

Lift the first tile you lay and check to see what kind of coverage you are getting, you are after 100% coverage! chances are you will need to back butter as well with that size tile. I would still advise over boarding with a 6mm cement board.
Good luck

 

[jwatson]

the advice given on this site is sound. bal have products that go against British standards, learned and practised by many tilers on here. They have a product that they claim can go straight onto tongue and groove boards, but i dont think that you would get many tilers on here that would do/trust it tho. so it is entirely up to you. The advice from the pros is to overboard. take it or leave it.

Called BAL Technical. To summarise what they said...

- Don't prime surface (just ensure there is no wax coating by sanding down)
- Adhesive: Single Part Fastfelx
- Grout: Wide Joint + GT1. additive.

Also said that on such a small floor the movement or deflection should be at a bare minimum.

So, there you have. Thanks again for all your advice!

 

[richardbell81]

the advice given on this site is sound. bal have products that go against British standards, learned and practised by many tilers on here. They have a product that they claim can go straight onto tongue and groove boards, but i dont think that you would get many tilers on here that would do/trust it tho. so it is entirely up to you. The advice from the pros is to overboard. take it or leave it.

believe me... i'm not doubting or questioning anyones expertise. If i could afford to get a professional tiler in to come and do the whole job, do you not think i would? However, I'm trying to do as much of the work as I can myself as this is our first house and we're on a very tight budget... i'm sure most people have been there at some point???

On this occasion, I have b*ggered up by not allowing extra height to tile over the newly installed woodchip flooring. If I could go back and do it all again then I would but i've just come slightly to far to realistically do that without causing major problems so I need to try and come up with the best solution possible, which may not be ideal, but there you go. I just hate doing 'DIY' jobs which is why I asked the experts instead of ploughing on.

Apologies if I caused any offence.

 

[jwatson]

if there is no room for over boarding then imo would be a good idea to get something in writing from bal, stating the installation method required to meet there 25 year guarantee. thus covering your back if anything did go wrong in future. be aware, what ever they say do, as they are very good at testing if correct procedures have been followed voiding the guarantee.

 

[richardbell81]

if there is no room for over boarding then imo would be a good idea to get something in writing from bal, stating the installation method required to meet there 25 year guarantee. thus covering your back if anything did go wrong in future. be aware, what ever they say do, as they are very good at testing if correct procedures have been followed voiding the guarantee.

yes... unfortunately their guarantee would be void as I didn't prime the sides and underneath of the waterproof chipboard flooring!!! my bad... although one BAL tech guy told me 'off the record' that he thought it would be fine as it's a 1st floor small room, and that the moisture resistant stuff should not be affected by atmospheric moisture too much!


The only people who seem to be able to give me any sort of guarantee are the guys at Nicobond if I was to use Plastic Ply! Although most of the guys on here seem to be suggesting to steer clear of that stuff, which is a shame as it would seem to be a perfect solution on the face of it.

 

[sharpfamily]

hello,

A suggestion: under tile electric heating makes a bathroom luxurious & very comfortable - may be worth considering, especially if there's not an existing central heating radiator. Use of thermal backer board is essential for heating efficiency. I used the Warmup UTH system plus electric towel rail to replace a 1kw wall mounted electric fan heater.


Incidentally the following link gives a lot of discussion on tiling on chipboard. I still haven't had any problems with any of my 3 tiled chipboard floors .

http://www.tilersforums.com/tile-ad...loor-grade-chipboard.html?highlight=chipboard