S
Spud
Just thought I would post some pictures of a patio terrace job we have been working on for the past few weeks , it has been a bit stop start as we had a wait with some of the materials and i had some other jobs to fit , we used a schluter drainage matting system and a schluter modular screed sysytem together to protect the installation from frost damage , it was the first time I had used this system and it has been a good learning experience as well as a nice job to do in a nice location
firstly here are some before pictures of the concrete base and subfloor
The specification for the patio was a 1;60 fall away from the house and we had to mechanically fit 50mm haddon stone risers and haddon coping stones square from the house and form a curved riser and coping falling at the 1;60 fall and then tile using a porcenalosa 438 x 658 porcelain tile the concrete had been roughly cast and the levels were and shuttering was not great which caused extra time in setting up the levels correctly using a water level, stake pins and staked frames to give us a finished floor levels and grid lines
my first mistake was that with this system you need to be within a minimum and maximum height tolerance for the modular scrred matting so I firstly blinded the low areas with loose sand to raise the level of the matting to within this tolerance but after much thought and a call to schluter technical we took up the matting we had laid and the previous days work and lifted a half a ton of loose sand of the sub base and bonded a sand and cement pre screed to the concrete to bring up the height instead
once the side copings we set this gave a straight set out line and finish floor level to enable us me to begin tiling which we did the old fashioned way of bedding the tiles into sharp sand and cement mixed 4;1 and bonded with bonding slurry the concrete sub base had been laid with a camber in the centre and this rose up to in the very centre higher than the minimum tolerance so again I had to take up some of the previous days work and grind out the high concrtete with a diamond cup wheel and a 9inch grinder to bring the bed depth with in the recommended tolerance
the matting is very easy to work with and inter locks using an egg carton type design which has larger holes one side of each sheet which allows the next sheet to sit in it perfectly with out any problems but we found we had to clean and hoover this out every morning to give the chance for the new mortar to bind into the matting .
we used tiles laid over the matting to protect it from being crushed by walking on it and found a sheet of 50mm kingspan works well to work off of and protect the mat while fixing on it , we followed the construction joint with pvc expansion joints and also put these at the joint of the coping stones and tiles
the main area went down fairly quickly and my self and another fixer laid 25m2 per day between us with a guy on a mixer knocking up the mortar and bring the tiles to us , the job did slow up as we tiled the side path and curved path detail as there was much more cutting and we had to envelope a hip where the fall changed direction and set inspection covers in we have one more day to finsh the job and it has turned out nicely , if I were to uise this method again i would screed over the matt and allow it to cure then use ditra drain and tile , Why simply because it would save a lot of time hoovering and cleaning the matting from the previous days loose mortar here are a few pictures of the nearly completed job
firstly here are some before pictures of the concrete base and subfloor
The specification for the patio was a 1;60 fall away from the house and we had to mechanically fit 50mm haddon stone risers and haddon coping stones square from the house and form a curved riser and coping falling at the 1;60 fall and then tile using a porcenalosa 438 x 658 porcelain tile the concrete had been roughly cast and the levels were and shuttering was not great which caused extra time in setting up the levels correctly using a water level, stake pins and staked frames to give us a finished floor levels and grid lines
my first mistake was that with this system you need to be within a minimum and maximum height tolerance for the modular scrred matting so I firstly blinded the low areas with loose sand to raise the level of the matting to within this tolerance but after much thought and a call to schluter technical we took up the matting we had laid and the previous days work and lifted a half a ton of loose sand of the sub base and bonded a sand and cement pre screed to the concrete to bring up the height instead
once the side copings we set this gave a straight set out line and finish floor level to enable us me to begin tiling which we did the old fashioned way of bedding the tiles into sharp sand and cement mixed 4;1 and bonded with bonding slurry the concrete sub base had been laid with a camber in the centre and this rose up to in the very centre higher than the minimum tolerance so again I had to take up some of the previous days work and grind out the high concrtete with a diamond cup wheel and a 9inch grinder to bring the bed depth with in the recommended tolerance
the matting is very easy to work with and inter locks using an egg carton type design which has larger holes one side of each sheet which allows the next sheet to sit in it perfectly with out any problems but we found we had to clean and hoover this out every morning to give the chance for the new mortar to bind into the matting .
we used tiles laid over the matting to protect it from being crushed by walking on it and found a sheet of 50mm kingspan works well to work off of and protect the mat while fixing on it , we followed the construction joint with pvc expansion joints and also put these at the joint of the coping stones and tiles
the main area went down fairly quickly and my self and another fixer laid 25m2 per day between us with a guy on a mixer knocking up the mortar and bring the tiles to us , the job did slow up as we tiled the side path and curved path detail as there was much more cutting and we had to envelope a hip where the fall changed direction and set inspection covers in we have one more day to finsh the job and it has turned out nicely , if I were to uise this method again i would screed over the matt and allow it to cure then use ditra drain and tile , Why simply because it would save a lot of time hoovering and cleaning the matting from the previous days loose mortar here are a few pictures of the nearly completed job
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