D
doug boardley
I told a plasterer not to leave his stainless trowel soaking overnight in brick acid as it would "pickle" it and send it rusty, he did, and it did:smilewinkgrin:
View all of the UK tiling forum threads, questions and discussions here.
don't think the cement will work he needs to add plain old table salt to the mix that will get it moving
Ajax ever tried brown sugar on fresh concrete (driveways mainly) to acieve the pebble effect works a treat:8:
I told a plasterer not to leave his stainless trowel soaking overnight in brick acid as it would "pickle" it and send it rusty, he did, and it did:smilewinkgrin:
wasn't in a position to argue as he's been in the game for 30yrs
As I said dave, thats what I thought first off but as I said didn't like to argue the point 'til I had more info. Printed this thread off today and gave it to him. Still waiting for a reply on the plasterers forum by the way, much traffic on there these days?Nobody has mentioned the old Ettringnite failure..???.. portland cement and gypsum..![]()
never done it with brown sugar but I have done it using other retarders. MOst old fashioned cement retarders are sugar based - usually based on plant sugars and wood resins. They are a bit more advanced and synthetic these days cos chopping down all the trees to stop consrete going off too quickly was considered not a great idea.
I guess with the brown sughar you would sprinkle it on and trowel it in then wash it off the following day like we currently do with exposed aggregate concrete driveways. Refined (white) sugar would do the same thing but would probably have a much deeper effect.
Never come acroos the table salt idea though. Will probably have to mix some up and try it now.........![]()
so, ( sorry for deviating Faith😳) if I lay my patio concrete slad, sprinkle sugar over it, it would leave some of the aggregate exposed? and then I could get a polisher and polish it off to leave a terrazzo effect?:daisy:
I had a plasterer come in to plaster a wall today. the wall varied from 'down to brickwork (Looked damp if I'm honest) to new plasterboard. my plasterer said that a handful of cement speeds up the drying time of (bonding) plaster!! Anyway, first coat of about 10/12mm didn't look as if it was drying (about an hour) so he put another 10/12mm on and left it. Still not setting when I left later on. Checked the 'use by dates', bonding ok but cement well out' Will I be hacking it off tomorrow do you think lads?
Excuse my terminology, if it's wrong,but the first two coats were 'bonding' and final skim was a 'multi finish plasterI'm slightly confused ,you used the term plaster, in my experience,plaster is only applied in thin coats up to about4- 5mm, & as a finish. is this a render coat or a one coat finishing system.Like thistle universal,or carlite
bonding is a gypsum basecoat, you skim onto it.I'm slightly confused ,you used the term plaster, in my experience,plaster is only applied in thin coats up to about4- 5mm, & as a finish. is this a render coat or a one coat finishing system.Like thistle universal,or carlite
bonding is a gypsum basecoat, you skim onto it.
so, ( sorry for deviating Faith😳) if I lay my patio concrete slad, sprinkle sugar over it, it would leave some of the aggregate exposed? and then I could get a polisher and polish it off to leave a terrazzo effect?:daisy:
absolutely right Dougieif Faith is using ceramic as opposed to tiles with a combined (addy, grout and tiles)weight of over 20kg m2, and the bonding is skimmed, he'll be okay.
Hi Doug,I'm aware of that thanks,hence the term carlite, associated with browning & bonding both base coats & often referred to as render coats down south, I was only curious as to what the application was as you guys would normally have picked up on it by now..Though your man did say another coat implying the use of the same stuff