Discuss Please give opinions on this tiling job in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

D

Daveyboy

If you have time Clare, run a string line from one end of the ceiling/wall joint to the other, pull/fix it tight and see how it lies..do this for the top row of tiles as well and put a level on it to see if the rows tiles on either side of the door are level with each other..also put a level on the top of the door architrave..this will tell you what is/is not level and from that, you will know what needs fixing...
 
D

Daveyboy

does not happen on a private build like this one matey, no building control inspector passes tiles, they are decorative items, wet rooms possibly, but that is it

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

You might be right Diamond but I know on the garage conversion I've just finished, Building Control checked off all second fix fixings as per his pre-printed checksheet before signing the completion certificate..maybe different building control areas do different things...
 
M

milan11

Hi, CL66!

As a matter of coincidence, in these days I'm working on exactly same job as you have - only instead of one bathroom, I have to tile five of them.

Perfect job, which you are looking into is actually much more difficult then it seems.

To achieve a 100% job, you'll need:
- death perfect level cealing, which is impossible
- death perfect level wall, which has to run death perfect parallel with your cealing, which is impossible too

or:

- very, very experienced tiler


Just b/c your cealing and your wall are definitely not perfect, tiler has only 2 choices:

1.) Finish the wall tiles in the same level - either the last tile is a full tile or if it's a cuting, then all cuts must be exatly the same.
In that case, tiler must mitre the top back edge of the tiles and finish these tiles in same line no matter what the cealing is wonky like.

In this case, you have also two choices - you'll either fill the gap between the tiles and cealing with painting filler (no grout!!!) and paint that filler with the same colour as the cealing, or, get a plasterer and make him replaster cealing - not a whole cealing, only the part of it - from edge of the tiles and loose it 2-3 feet from there


2.) if the cealing is not that bad, tiler has to cutt last line of the tiles following the line of the cealing, of course, he has to mitre the back top edge of the tiles again.


I only hope you understand me, what I wanted to say, IMHO you shoud get that gapp filled with filler and paint it or re-plaster that part of the cealing(this is the fastest and easiest way)


I'll get you some pics tommorow - how can it be done.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
C

CL66

Thanks Milan, Pics would be good. You guys really know your stuff. If it weren't for this forum I'd never have realised that all tiles that join where walls join or at 90 degree angles need a sealant instead of grout so that it doesn't crack with the house movement etc, and this hasn't been done either, so need to mention that too.
 
S

Spud

The cause of the cuts increasing or decreasing in size often has noting to do with the ceiling or the tiling being out of level ,as millan says the wall has to be square to the ceiling to achieve a straight cutting line and has to be resonalbly level if the wall is out of square to a level angled ceiling it in effect makes the cuts icrease in size and therefore make the ceiling seem out of level solution i would say finish 2inches below the ceiling line and paint it in as previous tilers have suggested
 

Ajax123

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You might be right Diamond but I know on the garage conversion I've just finished, Building Control checked off all second fix fixings as per his pre-printed checksheet before signing the completion certificate..maybe different building control areas do different things...

According to that programme that was on channel 4 a few weeks ago the building inspector needs to see and sign off everything if it is new build or major renovation. If it is just interior decorating I don't think the same rules apply. I do know that the BI inspects bulk house builders at second fix stage though.
 
S

smurf21

regardless of how the ceiling wall junction should or shouldnt be tiled its obvious from the first photo that the tiler has taken no care whotsoever just look at the tile cut above the door it doesn't line up with the tile on the right they need to strip the top row and redo and either keep the sam size cut straight across the ceiling line and paint out the gap to match the ceiling colour or bevel the top cut and fit it closer to the ceiling the second option in my opinion will only highlight the fact that you have an uneven ceiling line and the 1st opion only really works if the ceiling isnt to far out.
If you want it perfect then a ceiling line re skim is the only option:thumbsup:
 
C

CL66

Here's a mock up of the proposed solution..what do you guys think?

The piece over the tiles will be painted a gloss white and then above will be re-plastered so it's a smooth curve into the ceiling.

One of the main issues I had was that the door you see is actually a cupboard, not a full height door, so all the tiling you see is just a little below eye level and the first thing you see when you enter the bathroom as it's right in front of you!

IMG_2733.jpg


IMG_2735.jpg


IMG_2734.jpg
 
D

Daveyboy

If you're happy with that Clare proposal, then it's a job done..if it was my new house, I'd get them to replaster the ceiling to give me a straight line but that's my personal choice..

Glad to hear solutions are being discussed/considered though and it sounds like a solution is not far away..keep communicating and I'm sure you'll soon own your dream home! :thumbsup:
 

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