(Quite a) Few questions and anyone local for a quote :-)

[Old Mod]

As far as I know 200w is considered enough as a primary heat source, you have radiators, so I’d guess dropping wattage would be ok.
The reason mats are a certain size is because of the amperage they draw I believe.
Many controllers can take multiple zones, but the amperage has to be reduced before it gets to the control, there’s is a junction box available that can deal with this.
But that’s for a registered electrician to deal with, not us.
Encapsulating wires in tile adhesive is possible, but by no means best practice.
An slc covering of approx 5mm over cables gives the best protection and heat transference to your finished floor.
If you are Tiling under your kitchen units, insulation board is generally cheaper to fill those areas than any other method, including adhesive and slc.
I wouldn’t advise leaving gaps in your ufh layout for anything moveable, ie sofa’s.
What happens when you change the furniture or it’s position?
Suddenly you have a cold spot.
An even heat distribution is always going to be more efficient, even if the capitol investment is higher.
It’ll be working overtime trying to heat a gap or hole in the middle of an area.

 

[Waluigi]

Just saw this on Facebook...

 

[hmtiling]

Just saw this on Facebook...

View attachment 103604

Thought my settings were private!

 

[widler]

Thought my settings were private!

Is that the analshite floor you were on about Harry 😉 I see you didn’t use matting

 

[hmtiling]

Is that the analshite floor you were on about Harry 😉 I see you didn’t use matting

It'll be reet mate🙂

 

[widler]

It'll be reet mate🙂

I know, its a fad is matting , like that flossing dance kids do, be forgot about soon 🙂

 

[Mr Andrew Grogan]

Thanks again for all the replies.

So looks like definitely screed the mat in. Probably not tiling under the kitchen units @3_fall, but probably will be under the island (but not heating under there I guess). Is the screed thick enough that it won't run off the matt and under the kitchen units where there is no insulation? (never had experience with it before so don't know if that is a dumb question).

Was there any recommendations on the tape between insulating boards, needed or not?

Is the WarmFloor Elektra range seen as decent on these forums? Obviously, they seem well priced when comparing to the quotes I've been given from the various tile outlets.

One last thing was what do people do where the tiled area meets a carpet? Given there will be quite a height difference, do they create a slope in the carpeted area to make the drop between rooms smaller, therefore allowing for a tile to carpet door trim to be used or similar?

I have a few additional people coming out to quote for the work (one from here) so I'll hopefully get any further queries answered then 🙂

 

[Old Mod]

You shouldn’t fit heating under any permanent floor standing units or sanitary ware, it should be a minimum of 50-60mm away from skirting or heat source, (radiator pipe)
Form some kind of dam at the edges where you want to avoid the slc from running over.
You can use something as simple as a line of sand or even any excess slc powder, or use Silicon to fix a small wooden baton (door stop) around edges, or even thin off cuts of insulation board.
Scrim tape for boards should be alkali free.
You can use slc beneath carpet area by door to provide gentle slope and/or use tile trim to make the transition between tile and carpet.
Carpet and underlay normally totals 20mm + so the difference may not be as bad as you expect.

 

[Dumbo]

As above but find expanding really easy to form a dam just squirt a line on the ground behind kitchen legs.

 

[GoneGuy]

As above but find expanding really easy to form a dam just squirt a line on the ground behind kitchen legs.

Same I find expanding foam quicker and easier