Discuss Removing edge tiles with UFH in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

T

Timo

Ok, so I went today to lift a tile using the "cut and chisel" technique and it was so easy I ended up lifting the 6 tiles that were needed. First I just cut a 1" grid with the circular saw set to a depth of about 8mm (the tiles are 10mm thick). Half the squares just popped away from the adhesive themselves and the rest came out easily with a sideways tap with a hammer. No chisel required.

Checked the UFH along the way and it was fine.

So now the challenge is to get the adhesive up!

Apparently a sparky is going there soon to fit some lights so the owner will get them to connect the existing UFH up and use their multimeter to (hopefully) detect where the UFH wires run. He has some proximity sensor to detect live wires apparently. No idea? Fingers crossed it can detect the 240V AC through the adhesive. And then he'll just mark along the adhesive where the wires are and I'd chisel around them.

Any other ideas?
 
T

Timo

Apparently a sparky is going there soon to fit some lights so the owner will get them to connect the existing UFH up and use their multimeter to (hopefully) detect where the UFH wires run. He has some proximity sensor to detect live wires apparently. No idea? Fingers crossed it can detect the 240V AC through the adhesive. And then he'll just mark along the adhesive where the wires are and I'd chisel around them.

The sparkies non-contact livewire sensor didnt work because (he said) the cables are shielded. So the homeowner bought a 'stud finder' and has reported some limited success detecting the cables through the adhesive and confirmed that with a 'back of the hand' warmth test now that the UFH is working again (thanks to the sparky).

So the homeowner is going to have a go at carefully chiselling out the adhesive where he was pretty sure there was no UFH (about 4 of the 6 tiles) because grinding the back of the tiles risks weakening them too much so they'd crack.

Any other tips / advice?
 
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