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Rendering a wall

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I used it to patch up not to do full walls as i said in previous post cos i was in the doo doo at the time

Then you did what I would have done. Exactly what it is sold for.
It would be nice to use for full jobs but like Dave says - more cost effective then to mix yer' own!
 
I didnt say about it bieng hard or easy to work with, i said it is a fortune for what it is....you can get fast setting cement and it dries fast and can be tiled on...

NO i havn't used it because i wouldn't pay the price...have you used fast setting cement...?..

Yes I have but as you can see from other users posts, the BAL render is pretty good stuff and that 2 hour drying option is worth it on its own. 'Time is money' as they say :thumbsup:
 
gonna have to pull plasterers rank here guys, to my mind and post description, it's been double coated in sand and cement, post says that all top coat's come off, chances are very slim that base coat would have been plastered to a tileworthy standard, ie it won't have seen a derby or straight edge, so patching is not the answer in my very humble opinion!:yes:
 
gonna have to pull plasterers rank here guys, to my mind and post description, it's been double coated in sand and cement, post says that all top coat's come off, chances are very slim that base coat would have been plastered to a tileworthy standard, ie it won't have seen a derby or straight edge, so patching is not the answer in my very humble opinion!:yes:

Agreed, sounds like my house (1930s semi) all the walls were dry and had to come off. It was only vertical gravity keeping the render anywhere near the brick work!
 
i only put about quick set render cos some one said about taking the really bad bits out that are flaking/falling off or the patching up
 
Hi everyone,

It's interesting to read and learn how you float walls over there. It sounds like the mud if floated straight over the block or brick on the walls, then possible scratched, and then a second coat applied later and screeded to plumb. Here most stuff is stick-built and when there is a mud job it is usually floated over metal diamond lath that is nailed to the studs. Except in certain limited markets around the US, there aren't many guys left doing mud walls.

We mix our own sand/cement/masonry lime to make wall mud because I can't find any ready mix stuff anymore.

Sorry for the thread drift from the original post. 🙂

PS: What is a "bolster"? Is it what we call a cold chisel?
 
this is a bolster..............
3-peice-hammer-BIG.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If the block/brick work is good then a single coat render/mud will suffice, metal diamond lath is called expanded metal lathing (EML) over here. A cold chisel is long and thin, A bolster has a wide blade from 2'' to 4''
 
Thanks, guys. Now I know "spanner" and "bolster". 🙂

The bolster looks like what we call a brick chisel.

The older houses that have exterior walls of solid block and brick still have furring strips nailed to the block with the metal lath nailed to that, then a three step float.

For much of the production construction work around much of the US, floated mud walls were stopped in the 1960's. There are certain markets where mud still is used in new construction, but in most places it has been tile-over-drywall for decades. :mad2:
 

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