Self level screed with ufh

As above.

I know I bang on about us overusing decouplers and not trusting our world leading adhesives, but in this case it's going to save Head aches money and a floor.

You really need the builder to understand this too as he's going to have to see the cost and time viable.
 
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by the sounds of it yes would this have to had been layed prior to the screed ? its stops cracking in the joints i take it??
 
No Terry, it's a matting designed to go over your substrate, it helps eliminate lateral movement in a floor (side to side)
BUT it doesn't eliminate bounce, that's important to remember!
Your screed will expand and contract with the heating and cooling of your substrate (screed in this instance)
Natural stone is very susceptible to cracking in this environment, hence the use of a decoupler, although not a BS requirement, is highly recommended!
 
ah i see so the adhesive goes over the top of the matting reducing moment and expansion of the floor top info do if the matting is there and all the above what i described does the matting go down with a primer then adhesive then matting then tile ?
 
Wow u read fast!
Do u tile that fast? Haha
Yes Terry, u can prime your screed, make SURE u follow adhesive advice for priming.
Lay Ditra on top using correct trowel, butt joint it, if it needs to be a waterproof membrane (like a wet area) then u must seal the joints to make it waterproof throughout the room.
U must seal the joint with Kerdi Keba tape (minimum 125mm wide)
And u must stick the tape to the Ditra with Kerdi Coll, schluters own adhesive. If u don't it could very possibly fail as a waterproof membrane.
Then tile on top as normal.
Back fill the pockets in the Ditra as u go, the serate your adhesive over the top of that and press in ur tile.
 
im still reading it but i can see there is all the info i need based on substrates 🙂 top stuff tho mate thanks for the advice ! next question tho say if they were large format tiles how would we limit the bounce of the substrate ?
 

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