D
doug boardley
would have knocked it off and sand/cement rendered myself
View all of the UK tiling forum threads, questions and discussions here.
Quite correct White beam i think the proper termanology is hygroscopic where something attracts moisture from the air and stores it within itself the trouble is with bonding it just seems worse at doing it than anything else.The only worse material i have found for this is plaster of paris that is like a sponge when their is moisture in the air.A concern i have about this is the use of one coat plasters, even though i use them myself, in older houses where the walls need to breath and their is always a certain amount of moisture in the wall as i have found that the problem is always worse when gypsum products are put on thick. One coat is a modern conception so only use it on modern structures.
Andy
a 12mm hardibacker type board AndreWhat would you do on a lath&plaster wall that strips down to the lath when removing old tiles. Let's say it's going to be a wet area wall. What would you use to repair the wall before retiling. Assuming also that no tanking will be done.
Thx
Andre
Why did he use bonding, hardwall would have been better i know it is being tanked but i dont like bonding in any wet situation it just seems to attract moisture from the air and stay damp.
Andy
Generally allow 24hrs/mm thickness of plaster. it is not just the drying that you need to look out for. The plaster can appear "dry" but it will not have reached full strength. It needs to be as strong as it will get to support your tiles.The situation was that the enclosed (3 walls) shower area was previously fully tiled on solid plastered walls. I removed the tiles and scraped off old adhesive. In doing this then some of the finished surface below was bound to come off, leaving up to 3-4mill diffirence on surface levels. Also there were gaps up to 25mil deep back to blockworkjust above the shower tray where it had been shoe'd in. I asked the plasterer to do a levelling bonding coat, then, on the advice above, a finishing skim. Apart from right at the base the bonding would have been no more than 4-5mil thick, I also think he filled the really deep gaps with a quick drying filler. I would have put backing boards all round but didn't have the room to increase wall depth or shower door would then have been too wide.
What better alternatives would I have had please?
Also in light of the above extra info on depth of plaster applied, how long do I leave before tanking?
Again many thanks for input, very useful.....