View the thread, titled "Tanking Tape Install Help" which is posted in Tanking and Wetrooms on Tilers Forums.

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Crumbs, there is a website: www.waterproofingshowers.com that may be of interest in respect of installing a Sealux trim over a tray/bath and BAL tanking over the shower walls.

If you are installing a tray/bath and intend to tank over it (or not), Sealux have just launched HydroHALT (www.hydrohalt.com). The installation animation on the homepage might surprise you (or not!)

Ger I like the look of that HydroHalt it's new to me, but I'd still like tape on the vertical joints. Some of the movement I've seen in those areas in new builds over the years has been crazy.
 
It's a shame most of the customers I mention tanking to, think I'm trying to upsell or aren't interested.

If customers want their tiled shower installations to meet BS Codes of Practice, the recommendations are clear. If customers want plaster board tiled without tanking I would ensure a written recommendation to tank the walls was made with a limited guarantee on their chosen specification.

BS 5385-4:2015 was published in October 2015 and Section 7 dealing with ‘wet and damp conditions’ now advises that in areas not subject to continuous water immersion but subject to frequent wetting, the basic structure behind the tiles should be watertight.

In particular, BS 5385 Part 4.7.2.1.4 states the following should apply in respect of installations not immersed but subject to frequent wetting including wet rooms and domestic power showers.

a) The basic structure behind the tiles should be watertight and should be tanked.
b) Water-resistant materials should be used throughout. Plaster and plasterboard, would be unsuitable in frequently wetted areas.
c) The tiles should be solidly bedded so that voids behind them are eliminated as far as possible.
d) When the installation is tanked and water-resistant materials are used, cementitious grouting compositions may be specified.
e) Special attention should be paid to sealing the gaps between wall and base, particularly if the installation is on a suspended floor.
f) Where movement joints are subject to water immersion, water spray or splash, the joints should be sealed with curing sealants.
 
Very text book but in the real world, despite my thoughts on it, the customer often doesn't want the extra expense even if it is a small one by comparison to the consequence. I don't work on sites so I don't have some one on my back quoting out of the rule book on every job, the customer gets what they want
 
If customers want their tiled shower installations to meet BS Codes of Practice, the recommendations are clear. If customers want plaster board tiled without tanking I would ensure a written recommendation to tank the walls was made with a limited guarantee on their chosen specification.

BS 5385-4:2015 was published in October 2015 and Section 7 dealing with ‘wet and damp conditions’ now advises that in areas not subject to continuous water immersion but subject to frequent wetting, the basic structure behind the tiles should be watertight.

In particular, BS 5385 Part 4.7.2.1.4 states the following should apply in respect of installations not immersed but subject to frequent wetting including wet rooms and domestic power showers.

a) The basic structure behind the tiles should be watertight and should be tanked.
b) Water-resistant materials should be used throughout. Plaster and plasterboard, would be unsuitable in frequently wetted areas.
c) The tiles should be solidly bedded so that voids behind them are eliminated as far as possible.
d) When the installation is tanked and water-resistant materials are used, cementitious grouting compositions may be specified.
e) Special attention should be paid to sealing the gaps between wall and base, particularly if the installation is on a suspended floor.
f) Where movement joints are subject to water immersion, water spray or splash, the joints should be sealed with curing sealants.

Its says - water-resistant materials should be used thoughout which I assume means something like Hardi-backer or maybe a shluter system but if these are water resistant this doesn't need tanking except on the joins? or is it suggesting that even the water resistant materials be completely tanked?
 
also If british standards are applicable to a tiling installation then it shouldn't be an option to the customer whether you use tanking etc or not...that's the point of british standards...to ensure ALL builders/tillers/plumbers adhere to these standards so the customer is protected and can be confident that the job will be completed correctly and no mishaps will occur...
 
This is all very interesting but would you say that a power shower or even a gravity-fed shower over a bath is worthy of the tanking suggested in BS as only the long wall that will be subject to water and probably water reflecting off the body at that.....I mean, I've got just that at home, the original tiler didn't tank or use any fancy sealer just Silicon and over 10years later its still going strong and no leaks...but I guess it's worth the extra confidence in your installation??
 
The trouble is Steve that all back grounds are normally gypsum which suck water up like a sponge, in 84 we rendered shower areas which were block based for the London underground in the lower areas of the office block which was being refurbed and they were for the engineers to have a shower and tiled with Quarry tiles.

Solid as you like.
 

Reply to the thread, titled "Tanking Tape Install Help" which is posted in Tanking and Wetrooms on Tilers Forums.

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