Tanking wall beside bath

[Mossop]

Below is a plan of the bathroom, showing the locations of the bath, and one overhead shower and one wall-mounted dis-mountable hand-shower.

As I've indicated on the figure, there is a brick wall at one end, the side wall is a stud wall which will be plasterboarded and tanked.

What about the short wall on which a hand shower is mounted (this open alcove runs floor to ceiling)? Do you suggest?

a) Tanked plywood sheet
b) Tanked Hardiboard sheet
c) Tanked plasterboard sheet, with a timber frame directly behind the hand shower
d) Other

 

[Mossop]

Is the shower backing onto a stud wall or airing cupboard?

I just saw your post after I posted the above. It's backing onto a stud wall (on the landing - top of the stairs).

A structural waterproof tanking board such as wedi, schluter, marmox, orbry, jackoboard are the better choice.

By "structural", do you mean these boards have some inherent strength to them (unlike plasterboard) so objects such as hand showers can be attached to them

 

[Qwerty]

Yes, but to fix items to the wall you will still be better off with some structural support. You are fortunate that it's a stud wall. You can always use CLS timber inside the stud wall to provide the support you require. You will be absolutely fine using tanked plasterboard with timber supports inside the stud wall.

In short, C

 

[Mossop]

What's CLS? Edit: It appears to be Canadian Lumber Standard.

I found out that it is possoble to purchase Schluter Kerdi-Board locally. In case that was used, I suppose the 9mm thickness is the one to go for to adhere tiles then a hand shower to? Do you think this would still require some structural support (i.e. timber frame)?

 

[Qwerty]

I would still opt for timber support.

Yes, CLS does stand for Canadian Lumber Standard (carcassing timber) .... everyday is a school day on here!

 

[Bond]

You could fix ply to studs overboard with plasterboard, then tank. Good for fixings and adds rigidity to the wall.

 

[Mossop]

You could fix ply to studs overboard with plasterboard, then tank. Good for fixings and adds rigidity to the wall.

That's interesting. I do have some sound resistant plasterboard.
Do you guys think securing plywood directly to the studs, then securing this plasterboard on top, then tanking the plasterboard would most likely eliminate any risk of thermal movement or swelling of the plywood?

That is, only on the angled wall shown on my above diagram which has a red arrow pointing to it.

If there's a full ply wall here, it does leave open the option of securing other things to it e.g. a shelf/shelves or a basket for toiletries etc.

 

[Bond]

If you screw ply and plasterboard to the studs and follow instructions on the tanking kit, there should be no foreseeable issues at all.

 

[Qwerty]

Would the build up of the layers cause an issue with door frame, architrave etc?

 

[Mossop]

Would the build up of the layers cause an issue with door frame, architrave etc?

There is no architrave, and this would only apply to the angled wall indicated on my above diagram with a red arrow. There is no door on that wall so there would not be any issues with regards to a door frame either.

 

[Mod]

I was just wondering which of the many options you would use when putting up new board on the wall which runs the length of a bath with an overhead shower above the bath?

That is, a wall currently with nothing attached to the stud.

Options appear to be putting up ordinary plasterboard, or plywood, or Hardibacker or AquaPanel or some other cement-based board.

Tanking: do you use the paint-on tanking products or do you use an overlap matting system?

I'd be interested in hearing which method you would use, and if you have any particular reasons as to why you'd choose that substrate and tanking or matting finish?

Thanks.

I allways use aquapanel or similar if theres a shower and its a stud wall